“Bejitarian,” I say, the Japanese word for vegetarian, with my hand on my chest trying to communicate that I don’t eat meat to the perplexed waiter. “Why would you not eat meat?” his face seems to ask.
I point to the menu again and say “bejitarian” in the hope he will point out a dish that is suitable. Instead he just shakes his head and I eat plain rice and edamame for dinner. I’ve heard countless stories of fellow vegetarians travelling to Japan and having similar experiences.
Stories of playing charades with restaurant staff, miming animals one by one followed by a stern “ie” (no in Japanese). One friend played the bejitarian game with a chef only to have a live squid plated up on the table. It’s vegetarian if it’s still alive, right?
If you’re a pescatarian and eat fish, you’re in foodie heaven, as fish is synonymous with Japanese cuisine. However, fish is definitely something to keep a keen eye out for on menus if you prefer your fish as friends, not food. Navigating Japan’s carnivorous love affair can be overwhelming and exhausting, however attitudes towards vegetarianism are slowly changing.
While the convenience stores in Japan lived up to their name and provided a slight refuge in the form of Inari (rice wrapped in sweet beancurd) and egg sandwiches, there’s so much more to Japanese vegetarian food as we found out.
Some of the best nights were spent in Izakaya’s around Japan sharing food and swilling beer, whiskey and Shochu. These Japanese pubs serve sharing plates and luckily for you, my fellow vegetarian, there is a plethora of vegetarian options. Fried or grilled vegetables on sticks are the main veggie affair here and make the perfect accompaniment for a cold Asahi or whiskey High Ball.
If you need to fend off your hangover from last night’s Izakaya, hot bowls of delicious vegetarian ramen can be found around Japan, and often for under 1000 yen. Ramen is a popular noodle soup dish and restaurants often have a vegetarian option. Just make sure to ask before you take a seat at the table and be wary of dashi (fish) stock, which forms the base of many ramen dishes. If you’re in luck, you can join the symphony of slurping and slurp your noodles loudly and proudly, as it is a sign you’re enjoying your meal.
Japanese curry is the perfect way to recharge after tackling Tokyo’s eclectic districts and luckily many curry houses now have a vegetarian option. Most dishes use pork or beef in the curry sauce, so look for the dishes that say “vegetarian friendly” and not simply a curry with vegetables, as the sauce may contain meat. Coco Curry, one of Japan’s biggest curry chains, now stocks a vegetarian friendly curry sauce and can be found in most major cities.
If you’re craving some vegetables, tempura is definitely the way to go. Lightly battered crispy vegetables can usually be ordered free of shrimp. If you’re hankering for something more substantial, tempura noodle soup is a perfect pick-me-up for a weary traveler, but make sure the broth is vegetarian too.
Everyone likes pancakes, right? Okonomiyaki is a noodle and cabbage-based pancake and is always made to order, often right in front of you. Kansai or Osaka style Okonomiyaki sees all the ingredients mixed into a batter and then fried, while in Hiroshima, a thin pancake is grilled and then the ingredients put on top. Either way you like it, you can ask for no meat or bonito flakes (fermented tuna flakes) and enjoy watching it made before your eyes.
Japan really does have some of the most amazing restaurants in the world, and whether you’re getting kawaii in Harijuku, temple-hopping in Kyoto, exploring the beautiful gardens of Kanazawa or eating your way through Osaka, hopefully this makes travelling Japan as a vegetarian a lot less intimidating.
To make things a bit easier for you, here are some great restaurants to check out:
Tokyo
Tofu Cuisine Sorano
• 4-17 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya-ku
As the name suggests, this place is tofu heaven and the zen-like atmosphere will put your mind at ease. Slip off your shoes and enjoy the creamy avocado tofu or tofu skin chips which will convert even staunch tofu skeptics. The pièce de résistance is definitely the fresh tofu, which is cooked in a wooden box from soy milk to tofu at your table. Tofu Cuisine Sorano isn’t strictly vegetarian, so there is something for everyone on the menu.
Hiroshima
Yakeppachi
• 15-3 Higashi Hakushimacho, Naka-Ku
Most of the Okonomiyaki restaurants in Hiroshima will prepare a vegetarian option for you, but if you want to be sure, head to Yakeppachi, 10 minutes from Hiroshima Station. The English menu welcomes the hungry vegetarian with “No Egg, No meat – No Problem!” and vegan options can be ordered as well.
Kyoto
Shigetsu
• 68 Susukinobaba-cho, Saga-Tenryuji, Ukyo-ku,
Shojin Ryori is a traditional Japanese Buddhist cuisine that is entirely vegetarian, and centres on simplicity and harmony, with each meal requiring a balance of colours and flavours. Shigetsu is located inside the Tenryu-ji Temple and is a great place to try traditional Japanese Buddhist food.
Osaka
Sawa
• 4-20-1 Abenosuji Abeno-ku
Sawa is adorned with surfboards, kayaks, Nintendos and Buddhist paraphernalia creating a warm and homely atmosphere that will ease your travelling soul. Sawa serves delicious Japanese vegetarian and non-vegetarian set menus with all produce sourced from the owner’s farm. Tuck into hearty Japanese porridge and pumpkin croquettes and strike up a conversation about surfing with the owner and you’ll be there long after you’ve finished eating.
For more articles like this view my Asia travel guide.
