Bolivia is one of the most unique and visually appealing countries we’ve ever been. I have to admit that we were both a bit nervous upon entering Bolivia for the first time.
We knew travel would be tougher than anywhere else we had been up to that point, and we knew the poverty would probably be the worst we had seen as well. While both ended up being true, neither had a negative effect on how we viewed the country.
After being stranded in Puno for a few days because of a bus strike, we finally took off for Copacabana, Bolivia, which was a great place to start our adventures in this new country. Singing Barry Manilow’s famous song aloud was a prerequisite for visiting this beautiful city set on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Upon our arrival, we realized that Copacabana had this whole city on a lake thing down, and Puno could learn a thing or two from them.
Getting There/Arriving
Bus
Ahhh, Bolivian buses. There is no airport in Copacabana, so bus is the only option (I suppose you could hire a car, but that’s not something I would recommend in Bolivia). There is no bus station here, and most buses dropped passengers off at the top of a hill overlooking the city and the lake.
Copa’s a small city, so walking down into the center was a short one. Buses left from Av 16 de Julio near Av 6 de Agosto. There was typically a line of buses around this area at all times, and there were plenty of travel agents selling tickets. Find out what other people paid before buying a ticket to your next destination, as they will try to charge as much as possible.
Getting Around
Copacabana is a very small town, so your own two feet is all you need to get around. I don’t recall even seeing a taxi, and the cars were also minimal. Everything is nice and compact, so get your walking shoes on and take off.
Where to Stay
Finding online maps of Bolivian cities is pretty easy, be sure to download one beforehand if you don’t have internet access.
Virtually everything is clustered around the main intersection of Av 16 de Julio and Av 6 de Agosto. There are hotels and hostels of all different shapes, sizes, and prices. It is possible to just turn up without a reservation and get a room like we did; however, it depends on what time of day you arrive and what day of the week.
We arrived on around lunchtime on a Saturday and proceeded to wander the city looking for a cheap room. We found one that we liked (at the Colonial del Lago, which was really nice and had great views of the lake), but we couldn’t agree on a price. We then walked and walked and walked, being tired and hot and indecisive, until we decided to return to the Colonial and find out they were sold out.
We ended up staying at two different places during out time in Copacabana. Since we were unable to procure the room we wanted initially, we ended up at Hostal Ambassador at Bolivar and Jauregui.
We paid the ridiculously low price of $8.50US for a private room with private bath and a semi-hot, electric shower (that’s right, electricity and water, a common thing amongst showers on our travels). No breakfast was included, and while the place itself was really nice and had a great set-up, the beds were horrible. But it was 8 bucks a night, so what are you gonna do?
Since we weren’t big fans of the beds we were sleeping in, we decided we needed an upgrade after a few nights, and we found Hostal Leyenda, right on the shores of Lake Titicaca. The place was right on the lake, the room was absolutely massive, it had a huge balcony on the lake side, the bed was comfy, and it included breakfast.
The only downside was that the customer service was pretty lacking and the bathrooms stunk horribly, but that’s just something you have to and will get used to when traveling in developing countries. The best about all this, the room only cost $15US/night. We could get used to Bolivia with these prices.
Food and Drink
Copacabana brought some good food to the table for a pretty cheap price (though most things in Bolivia were pretty damn cheap). With its proximity to Lake Titicaca, like Puno, Peru, their specialty was trout, available in many places.
We got some pretty good Mexican food, and we ate a few other places that served a good variety of all types of food, mainly geared towards travelers. You can find restaurants up and down Av 6 de Agosto, and during the day there are countless tents set up down the beach, all serving trout.
Trout
The local specialty can be found just about anywhere, and it’s served a variety of different ways. Here’s a few places we had it:
Wayky’s
This was a little place on Av 6 de Agosto that served local and tourist food. It had a nice little outside area, and we both had the trout lunch special, served with, you guessed it, fries and rice. The trout was fried, and the meal was fine. Nothing to write home about, but it did the trick, and it was really cheap (a few dollars).
Beachside Stands
The rocky beach on Lake Titicaca is lined with little tents, with plastic tables and chairs underneath them, all serving the exact same thing, TROUT. You can get it fried or grilled, and you have your choice of many different sauces or flavors. Served with the good ol’ standby’s, french fries and white rice.
Other Culinary Options
There were the normal touristy type places that sold a wide variety of cuisines. We found a few places that did Mexican pretty well, different, but well. They had some of the flavors down, and if you went in expecting Mexican food you’re used to at home, you will be getting a slightly varied version.
We had pretty good food at two separate places, though, near each other right on Av 6 de Agosto, on the few blocks closest to the lake. There are other options up a few blocks as well that always seemed crowded, but we did not eat at any of those.
Nimbo
A wide variety of food, but mostly Mexican food. The interior is hilarious, with sheepskins all over the chairs, super tight seating, decorations everywhere. It was quite gaudy, but in a great, Bolivian kind of way. The food was solid, too, as we ate there a few times during our stay.
La Orilla
Another varied menu, with all types of stuff, from trout to vegetarian to Mexican. Not sure about the hours, as they weren’t open until the final day we were there, which was during the week. Who knows? It’s Bolivia (which was a favorite mantra of ours during our time there-something weird, ridiculous, or odd would happen, and the only way to respond was “Eh, it’s Bolivia”). Food was quite tasty here, and the service was great as well. We ordered chile con carne and falafel (see, I told you, varied), both of which were outstanding.
Drinks
There were a few places on or near the beach and lake that were good for a few cocktails if you’re in the chilling, hanging out, having some beers kinda mood. There were also a few places on that first block of Av 6 de Agosto where you could sit outside and relax.
Don’t expect icy cold ones here though (or lots of places in Bolivia-ice is a premium, which really takes some getting used to-the things we take for granted). One time we stopped at a place, and I ordered a beer, Megan ordered a coffee.
A minute later a young boy, about 10ish, came sprinting from the inside and ran up the street, only to return a few minutes later with a liter of beer, nice and warm from sitting out in the sun in a shop up the street. Eh, it’s Bolivia.
Things to Do
To be honest with you, there aren’t a whole lot of things to do in the city of Copacabana. It’s a sleepy little town that is pretty quiet at night (at least when we were there), and it’s small without much in the way of museums or other attractions.
The main reason for coming here is to relax and explore the lake. Even though you won’t get the traditional beach experience here with the rocks instead of sand and cold water because of the altitude, it’s still a great place to hang out.
Whether you’re coming from Peru and getting ready for the challenges that sometimes pop up in Bolivian travel, or you’re just finishing your time in this wonderful country and want to rest for a bit before moving on, Copacabana is perfect. But don’t relax too much, as getting out and exploring the lake and several islands (most notably Isla del Sol) is a must.
Lake Titicaca
Copacabana is set right on the beautiful Lake Titicaca, the highest commercially navigable lake in the entire world, sitting at 12,500 feet (3800 meters) above sea level.
Kayaking
Rent a kayak or two from any number of people on the beach and explore, with the mountains and hills reflecting on the beautiful blue lake. Renting a kayak costs about $1.50US for 30 minutes.
Boat Rides
Taking a boat ride out on the lake is an absolute necessity. I suggest taking a trip to Isla del Sol, where it is possible to stay the night in one of the small towns. Isla del Sol is known as the main site of the Incan creation myth (there are a few). Read more on the Isla del Sol post.
Churches
As with most South American cities, there’s always a Catholic church to explore. Copacabana is no different with a Moorish style Cathedral near Plaza 2 de Febrero. It’s definitely worth a visit (they do charge an entrance fee-a whopping $0.25US).
Squares
There are two main squares in Copacabana; Plaza Sucre and Plaza 2 de Febrero. The former has vendors selling little snacks (like my wife’s favorite, a large, popcorn-type snack sold all over Bolivia, and her favorite she had was sold here in the plaza) and the latter has vendors and shops and a little market in the surrounding area.
Shopping
There are plenty of little booths and stands all over the city, selling everything from t-shirts to alpaca hats to sunglasses to local crafts. Most of the shop-owners were very friendly, and if they spoke much English, they were eager to talk. If you’re looking for some cheap and well made souvenirs, you can’t go wrong in Copacabana. Just walk up Av 6 de Agosto or anywhere around Plaza 2 de Febrero and you’re sure to find all kinds of goodies.
Hiking
This is the one thing we regrettably did not do. We had just come from hiking the Inca Trail and Colca Canyon within the previous few weeks, so we were just kind of hiked out and in need of some down time (though we did go on an all day hike on Isla del Sol).
Stations of the Cross
There is a trail from town that leads up a very steep hill overlooking the city and the lake, with the Stations of the Cross along the way. It’s a popular place to go watch the sunset.
Horca del Inca
Southeast of the Cathedral is an Incan sun clock, which is on the hill behind the town (Cerro Sancollani). Local boys will most likely offer the lead you there, but they aren’t doing it out of the kindness of their hearts, so if you want a little tour guide, agree on a fair price beforehand.
Along the Lake
A 10.5 mile (17km) hike along the lake to the town of Yampupata makes for a fantastic day trip through the Bolivian countryside. You can plan this hike with a trip to Isla del Sol as boats can take you from the village at the end of your hike.
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