It’s a funny old world. For years the places to celebrate St Patrick’s Day were New York, Boston, San Francisco, in fact just about anywhere apart from Ireland’s capital city Dublin.
That’s despite the fact that March 17 is supposed to celebrate the man who brought Christianity and drove the snakes out of Ireland. Famously he demonstrated the Trinity of Father, Son and Holy Ghost to the heathen king with the aid of a three-leafed shamrock.
Now St Paddy is the focus of a week-long festival in Dublin. This, however, is only one small reason for visiting what has become, in recent years, one of Europe’s most dynamic capital cities.
After decades of decay, European money has poured in over the last 20 years. As a result tourists and locals now throng the streets to enjoy the stylish shops, stunning restaurants, cutting-edge nightclubs, traditional and rock music, not forgetting the pubs. Not that the pubs ever went away, they’ve always been the focus of Dublin culture.
That culture is built on words. The Irish are probably the world’s greatest conversationalists and they’ve produced some of the greatest writers in the English language – Joyce, Yeats, Bernard Shaw, Wilde, Beckett, even Bram Stoker the author of ‘Dracula’. And it was Dublin that was the first place to combine tourism, culture and pleasure in the form of the literary pub crawl.
By the way, if you ask a Dubliner what a place is like and you think he says: “The crack’s great.” Don’t worry. He’s not recommending a drug den. “Craic” is basically the Irish Gaelic word for “fun” and more. It’s a word you’ll hear a lot in Dublin.
Dublin is the perfect city destination with friendly people and a wide selection of fascinating attractions that will appeal to everyone. If you’re looking for somewhere to spend a short city break, I’d definitely recommend giving Dublin a go.
When To Go
Dublin’s not the place to go for a suntan. If you turn brown, that’ll just be rust. The city does tend to dampness. It’s a place spared extremes of temperature. Snow is uncommon through the winter and there are some occasionally warm summer days too.
From June to August is the tourist season when the days are long and the nights are short. Although the opposite is true in winter, that’s when the streets are freer of tourists and prices are lower. And the pubs are always warm, dry and welcoming!
Getting Around
If you arrive at Dublin Airport you’ll find a variety of ways of traveling the six miles downtown. Cheapest is the city bus which currently charges €1.15, official airport coaches are about €3.50 or a taxi which should cost about €15.
The best way to explore the city is on foot. There is, however, a good bus service with a flat-rate €1.15 fare, but make sure you have the correct fare. Passes are also available which are useful if only to allow you to take the weight off your feet after a long day’s sightseeing.
The only real problem with Dublin’s transport is that it closes down at 11.30pm, which makes finding a taxi a late-night weekend nightmare.
Best Places to Visit in Dublin
Dublin is a great city just to wander round. Its center is compact and there’s always another little shop to look at, or a café or a pub. Georgian Dublin is the most attractive area with Trinity College at its heart.
Read on for places to include on your itinerary when planning a trip to Dublin.
The Old Jameson Distillery
If travel helps you to learn new things then a great place to start is the Jameson Distillery, as visitors are given an education in the processes involved in creating great Irish whiskey. A tour of the premises, which have been producing the tipple since 1780, will take you through all of the stages.
These include malting, milling, mashing, fermenting, distilling and maturing. The most important element is, of course, the tasting and this can be done at the end. Be tempted not to blow all of your budget in the gift shop, however!
The Guinness Storehouse
Continuing on a similar theme, no visit to Dublin would be complete without a trip to the home of its most famous drink. This amazing interactive museum is fascinating and it is easy to pass many hours here, learning about the history of the beverage and exploring the advertising campaigns that have marketed it over the years.
Over the course of seven floors in the storehouse at St James’s Gate Brewery a 250-year story is told. There are plenty of great photo opportunities and the whole experience is topped off with a pint in the Gravity Bar at the top, complete with 360-degree views of Dublin spread out in front of you. An attraction definitely not to be missed.
Dublin Castle
Stepping back in time is another great element of a gap year and you can do that right here in Dublin too. Visit the castle, which was built between 1208 and 1220, to see the style of architecture that was popular at the time.
Other notable structures you will come across in your explorations of the complex include a 13th century record tower and remnants of a Norman castle that once stood on the site. The state apartments once served as residences for English viceroys, but are now the place where Ireland’s presidents are inaugurated.
Trinity College
Trinity College: It may seem strange to recommend a university as a place to see, but with more than four centuries of history, this town within a city is not to be missed.
Wander through its grand buildings, cobbled paths and gardens enjoying the tranquility. Finish up in the beautiful Grand Library where the Book of Kells is displayed. This 1200-year-old illuminated manuscript is one of the world’s great art treasures.
Wandering around Trinity College is a wonderful thing to do in itself, evocative as it is of the history it displays going back to 1592. The great and the good of Dublin’s literary scene were educated here, including Samuel Beckett and Oliver Goldsmith.
Once you have got over the awe of the spectacular buildings and all they represent then head to the Trinity College Library where you will find the Book of Kells. This illuminated manuscript was created by Celtic monks and seeing it is likely to be a highlight of your trip, so be sure not to miss it.
Kilmainham Gaol
One of Europe’s largest unoccupied prisons, this is a place steeped in history. Some say it over-romanticizes the leaders of five rebellions from 1798 to 1916 who were jailed here. But it provides an unforgettable way of seeing how modern Ireland was shaped.
Phoenix Park
At twice the size of New York’s Central Park, Phoenix Park can make other city’s green spaces look little more than oversized backyards. As well as gardens, lakes and sports pitches, it has its own castle and contains the official residence of the Irish president. It’s also home to the once-dilapidated Dublin Zoo, which has benefited from some of the cash flowing into the city and now has a leading lion-breeding program and other attractions.
Mother Redcap’s Market: The city’s largest indoor market is a great place to pick up something genuinely Irish to take home. It has huge range of items including furniture, clothes and dolls, most of which are made locally. Open Friday to Sunday, the market is surrounded by pubs famous for their traditional music sessions.
Dublinia
At Dublinia you can experience Viking and Medieval Dublin complete with the smells and sounds of times gone by (and lots of creepy wax works). Apart from getting a few weird snaps for my photo album, I don’t think the child-friendly element of the museum was quite for me. The highlight was being able to climb to the top of St Michael’s Tower and see views of the city.
The National Wax Museum
Wax works seemed to be the theme of the day as I headed to The National Wax Museum. It definitely wasn’t as good as Madam Tussaud’s in London but it’s worth taking a look if you have a Dublin Pass. I wouldn’t pay the entrance fee if I was visiting again. If you’re a fan of Jedward, Elvis Presley, Star Wars or Kylie Minogue, then you’re in luck.
Dublin Writer’s Museum
If you’re a literature fan then the Writer’s Museum is worth a look. It includes a free audio guide so you can learn all about the life and works of famous Irish writers like Joyce, Swift, Beckett and Yeats. The museum exhibits their books, letters, portraits and personal artifacts.
Sightseeing: Finding Your Way Around
Dublin does not have the stunning beauty of Europe’s great capital cities such as Rome, Paris or Prague. But that’s not to say it’s short of sightseeing attractions or memorable places.
The main thing to remember is that the city is divided by the River Liffey. The south side has always been the more prosperous while the north is, shall we say, more gritty and down-to-earth.
Most of the sights are to the south in the graceful Georgian streets. Here you’ll find the grand Fitzwilliam and Merrion squares, close by the immaculate gardens of St Stephen’s Green. When the weather’s good it’s a real pleasure to walk round this well-kept area.
Many of the city’s landmarks are here too including Trinity College, the Irish National Museum, the home of the Irish Parliament, Leinster House, and the National Gallery of Ireland. It’s also the place in Dublin for up-market shopping round Grafton Street.
Next to the Georgian heart of Dublin is Temple Bar. Not so long ago this area was run-down and derelict, and then it was revived as part of the city’s growing prosperity. The streets filled up with restaurants, cafes, nightclubs, art galleries and a seemingly endless profusion of bars.
Unfortunately, it also attracted hordes of drunken, boisterous British stag and hen parties. This drove away locals and visitors alike. But recently many bars and clubs have banned the debauched large groups making the area, once again, Dublin’s place for a night out. And the shops, galleries and cafes make it a great spot to hang out during the day too.
Going west you’ll see the impressive Christ Church and St Patrick’s cathedrals. From even further back in history, the Norman city walls are on view in Cook Street. Nearby, on Dame Street, is that enduring symbol of British rule, Dublin Castle.
Even further west is the Guinness brewery, the Museum of Modern Art and Kilmainham Gaol. All the places mentioned so far are contained within a relatively compact area that can easily be explored on foot.
North of the river is the General Post Office building that was the focus of the 1916 uprising which eventually led to Irish independence. Its grand façade is still pitted from the gunfire. This side of the Liffey also includes Phoenix Park, the Dublin Writers Museum, The James Joyce Center and the Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art.
Top Tip – Buy The Dublin Pass
I picked up my Dublin Sightseeing Pass when I arrived at the airport. The pass was about 40 Euros for 2 days and got me free entry into most of Dublin’s major attractions such as The Guinness Storehouse, The Jameson Distillery, Dublin Writer’s Museum, Dublinia, The National Wax Museum and Kilmainham Gaol to name but a few.
Given the amount of sightseeing I was doing, the pass was worth it for me and also got you fast track entry into some of the museums which made things easier. It even included a free coach journey from the airport to the city centre.
Dublin Restaurants: Best Places to Eat
Once upon a time the restaurants of Dublin were generally dull, the food tasteless and eating out was a rarity. With prosperity has come a range of restaurants that are as good as anywhere in the world. But don’t miss out on all the tradition, some of it’s improved with age.
There are eating out options for all budgets, here is where I recommend.
Leo Burdock (2 Werburgh Street)
This restaurant lays claim to being the best fish-and-chip shop in Ireland and, possibly, the world. It could be. Don’t expect anything sophisticated, like tables and chairs, Burdock’s is strictly takeaway only. So you just have to make like a real Dubliner and enjoy your cod, ray, whiting, or haddock in the open air.
The Tea Rooms (Clarence Hotel, 6-8 Wellington Quay)
Although the name might suggest something rather different, this is in fact one of Dublin’s most sophisticated restaurants. Owned by the rock band U2, it’s very popular with celebrities. Fortunately the service is definitely democratic and you won’t find yourself ignored when some star from the world of music or movies walks through the door.
Gallagher Boxty House (20-21 Temple Bar)
Known as “GBH” to its many fans, this is real filling traditional fare. The Boxty is Ireland’s potato pancake and it’s just the thing to soak up a pint or two. GBH, situated in the heart of fashionable Temple Bar, also features other time-honored dishes such as Gallagher’s Irish stew, steaks and Mollie Mor fish stew.
Old School House (Church Road, Swords Village)
Situated in a small village this restaurant is well worth the trip away from the city center. It is, as it proclaims slightly tongue in cheek, in a class of its own. The owners have not tried to disguise the building’s scholastic origins, but the food is as far removed from school meals as could possibly be imagined. It specializes in seafood and contemporary continental and Irish cuisine.
Nightlife
No trip to Dublin would really be complete without a night out and a visit to Temple Bar. There are organised bar crawls going on every night in Dublin. I found one which started in a music bar so we watched a few live bands and then things started to get a bit blurry.
As always with these bar crawls, the free drinks and shots are flowing and it’s a good way to meet people, especially if you’re travelling on your own. Be aware Temple Bar is a bit of a tourist trap and prices for drinks are really high!
Budget
Dublin isn’t cheap, well it’s cheaper than London, Paris and Barcelona for example, but if you are planning on backpacking Europe and on a shoestring budget it is still expensive. Accommodation will be your biggest outgoing but there are some cheap youth hostels and even hotels in you book in-advance. There are lots of ways to enjoy Dublin for free including just walking around taking in the city centre.
Best Places to Visit Near Dublin
You could book tours to explore more of Ireland, or rent a car to independently to navigate the country. View my Ireland travel tips for more recommendations for what to do in the Emerald Isle.