Panama boasts 3,000km of coastline, beautiful rainforests and some seriously good surfing yet Panama is not as popular with travellers as its Central American neighbours, but to miss it is a mistake.
There are so many amazing things to do here, go island hopping, hike in the cloud forest, soak up the sun on jungle-fringed beaches or go wildlife spotting. It’s not all canals and hats you know.
View my top tips for travelling and backpacking Panama including where to go, what to do and how to avoid spending a fortune.
Panama Travel Resources
These are my favourite companies to use when I travel.
• Search cheap flights with Skyscanner.
• Find the best deals on hotels on Booking.com.
Panama Tours
• Book small group adventure tours with G Adventures.
Panama Facts
• Capital City: Panama
• Currency: Balboa, PAB
• Language: Spanish
• Time Zone: -5 GMT
• Dialling Code: +507
• Religions Practised: Christianity (Roman Catholic)
• Total Area: 78,200 square kilometres
• Population Size: 3,039,150
Getting There & Away
Air
Tocumen International Airport, 26km northeast of Panama City, would be a good entry point if it was not for the late (or very late) arrival of most flights : you are most likely to arrive after 10pm and, at that time, a public bus to the city is clearly a bad idea. No choice but to take an expensive taxi! On arrival and departure, there is a US$3 airport tax.
Land
Crossing from/to Costa Rica is a fairly easy process. There are two borders : at Paso Canoas, 56km west of David, or at Guabito, near Bocas Del Toro Archipalago. The later is certainly the nicest with very relaxed officials and a wild “middle of nowhere” kind of atmosphere.
Crossing by land to Colombia remains a very bad idea with regards to the safety issues affecting the eastern part of Panama.
Boat
Some adventurers are using the boat connection from/to Colombia as a cheaper alternative to the plane. Considering the safety issues, such a trip should be considered only with a reputable boat and good investigation as for the latest crime situation.
People entering Panama at Puerto Obaldia, may not receive a very good welcome from the immigration officers. Backpackers reported having problems because they did not have an onward flight (they had to pay for an expensive phone call to Panama City to check whether they could enter or not).
Practical Information
Visa
British nationals, along with the majority of European citizens, do not need a visa for Panama and can stay for up to 90 days. Citizens of the USA, Australia, New Zealand and Canada however will need to get a tourist visa or tourist card before they arrive. All tourists will be required to show an onward on return ticket as well as $500 in cash or travellers’ cheques so make sure you’re prepared.
Voltage and Plug
120 V. Japanese-style plug with two parallel flat blades or American-style plug with two parallel flat blades above a round grounding pin.
Safety
With the exception of the capital & Colon, Panama is a fairly safe country to visit : you can relax and enjoy the scenery ! In the above mentioned places however, being cautious at all time and avoiding certain districts are very good idea to avoid trouble. Visiting with the Police Tourist is also a solution…
Pickpockets and bag snatchers are a problem in urban areas. The border with Colombia (complete with rebel groups and drug traffickers) is dangerous and best avoided at all costs. Don’t hail taxis from the street – where possible get your hotel or hostel to call a registered cab for you.
Health
Panama is a fairly healthy country as most people have access to free medical care. The tap water is safe to drink in most places but unfortunately very heavy on chlore in some localities, making mineral water a tastier (but expensive) choice. Vegetables, local ice-cream and ice are no problem.
Malaria is usually only a problem in the regions east of Panama City and Mefloquine (Larium) may be advisable there. Being up to date with your inoculations (polio, tetanus, typhoid, diphtheria) is of course essential and adding hepatitis A and B is recommended.
Panama Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit?
If heading to the Pacific side, aim for the dry season which runs from mid-December to mid-April. North of the mountains, on the Caribbean side there’s rain all year round less so in February, March, September and October so aim for these months. Rafting in the Chiriquí Province is at its best from May to December.
Getting There and Away
If you’re planning on trekking from Colombia through the Dorien gap then think again- it’s extremely dangerous and an unwise venture. If you want to cross by foot do so through Puerto Obaldia, a nearby town. Fights from Europe and Asia tend to go via Miami but you can fly directly from Panama to most major cities within the Americas. Make sure you keep some cash on you as there’s a departure tax on international flights that can’t be paid by card. Overland, a cheap bus links Panama with Costa Rica.
Getting Around
Domestic fights are an option but this country isn’t huge and buses are a far cheaper way to get around especially if you are backpacking on a budget.
Travelling in Panama is a rather comfortable compared to other countries, with far less chicken buses than in the other countries. Minibus do most of the short or medium trip while luxury coaches deal with the long distances. The roads are good and the departures frequent. However, not all the country is well connected and traveling the eastern part would certainly be much more adventurous (and costly)…
Air-conditioned ‘highway’ buses link the capital with destinations along the Pan American Highway while ‘city’ buses – some of which are still brightly painted US school buses – serve the towns. Otherwise, hop onto a boat to travel along the coast.
Drawbacks?
The slightly higher cost of accommodation / The ridiculous cost of some resorts near Panama City / The airport’s related costs (taxi or departure tax) / The safety issues in the cities / The lack of safe land connection with South America / The obvious exploitation & misery of the Indians in some parts.
How Long?
Do not make the mistake to overlook Panama. There may not be too many places to visit but you may loose the notion of time in most of them. One week for the central parts (minimum requirement), one week for the San Blas adventure and one week for additional discoveries. Some people spend a week in Panama City alone. If you have limited time, you could rush the main attractions in a week. The more remote San Blas Archipelago is a must.
Budget?
$15 per day or less if eating in basic restaurants.
Panama is one of the most expensive country in the area but prices remain reasonable on average. Accomodation is slightly more expensive than its neighbours (at least US$6 for a Sgl) but there are some excellent deals around : nice rooms with HW shower, cable TV & view can be found for less than US$10. Also, there is usually no seasonal variation as in Costa Rica.
The food is very cheap and, even in Panama City, vegetable meals can be found for $1-5 and meat dishes for $5 ! Do not expect any culinary experience however… Tap water is usually drinkable (a great saving on your budget !) and good pastries are available at any corner for around $1.00.
Transport is reasonably priced, with the 6 hours luxury trip from Panama City to David at less than US$11. On shorter trips, Minibus or chicken bus are much cheaper, at around US$1 per hour.
There are a few entrance fees but paying is sometimes optional. Most of the attractions are however free to enjoy, making a visit of Panama much cheaper than Costa Rica for example.
There are however three black points: the taxi cost from the airport if you show up late at night (US$10-20), the airport departure tax (US$20, like most other countries) and the ridiculous cost of accomodation for the hill or beaches resorts near Panama City.
Excluding those, people on a budget you should survive pretty well with less US$15 per day. A bit more for San Blas area.
Top Things to Do
Don’t leave Panama without…
Drinking coffee in Boquete
This town’s name is Portuguese slang for ‘oral sex’, so any Brazilian tourists you meet are likely to be sniggering. Fortunately, Boquete’s also famed for its beautiful location and exceptional coffee.
Relaxing in the Paradise of Bocas Del Toro
When the sun is shining, travelers usually consider this archipelago on the Caribbean as their favorite beach gateway in the whole area : there are plenty of wild islands to explore, big waves to surf and tons of colorful fishes underwater plus a charming colonial atmosphere to relax and a friendly black community to exchange ideas with. Of course, it is less backpackers or diving oriented than Utila in Honduras.
Boating in Bastimentos
Get a boat-owning local on this delightfully lazy Caribbean island – in the Bocas Del Toro archipelago – to take you out for a journey into nature, featuring an all-star cast of dolphins, turtles, sloths and more.
Getting body painted
The ancient art of Embera body painting isn’t just for decoration; it’s also a nifty insect repellent. Get inked on a tribal village tour in eastern Panama.
Peeking into the past
Panama City’s old town, Casco Viejo, is a tumbledown mix of cobbled streets, crumbling colonial buildings and noisy street vendors, and offers an enchanting glimpse of the city before the skyscrapers moved in.
Gawping at the Panama Canal
Admiring major feats of engineering may not be top of your backpacking must-dos, but if you’re only going to gawp at one feat of human endeavour on your trip, head for Miraflores Locks.