If Central America is the world’s biggest party, Honduras is that quiet kid in the corner that no-one’s quiet sure about. Mostly this is down to history.
Hondurans had a tough time in the latter half of the 20th century – fighting Marxist-Leninist militias, guerrillas, the Nicaraguan government and, eventually, each other. Like the Balkans, it took tourism in the region a while to bounce back.
Today though, things are different. There’s a definite upswing to Honduras’ travel potential, with new resorts opening up, wildlife that gives Costa Rica a run for its money, and Mayan ruins to rival anything you’ll find Belize or Nicaragua. In fact the only thing you won’t get in Honduras is crowds.
It’s worth bearing in mind that most countries have travel warnings for Honduras and it is still advisable to exercise a high degree of caution when travelling here. Unfortunately, especially in some of the poorer areas of the cities, crime is big problem.
But the chances of you venturing into some of the worse areas of the country and slim, and Honduras has some amazing tourist attractions which would be a shame to miss on any Central American itinerary.
View my top tips for going backpacking and discovering the highlights of Honduras.
Weather and Best Time to Visit
The rainy season is not everywhere the same in Honduras: Tegucigalpa and the Pacific coast have a rainy season from May to October. The rest of the year is pretty dry. The Caribbean coast and the Bay islands can get rain throughout the year, but most of it is from October till November. This is what the books say, but when I was there, I had the first rain in 8 months on the Bay Islands (according to the locals). Temperatures are of course pretty high year round.
Getting There & Away
By Air
Toncontin International Airport is located 7km South of Tegucigalpa but few people use it as an entry/exit point. Aeropuerto Internacional Villeda Morales, 12km southeast of San Pedro Sula, is another option for those eager to reach the beaches faster.
By Land
Most backpackers arrive by land, either from Guatemala (3 borders), El Salvador (2 border) or Nicaragua (3 borders). The crossing is pretty straightforward in most places and there is a US$1 entry and exit tax.
By Boat
Since the pavement of the “jungle route”, the boat between North Honduras and Guatemala has been cancelled.
Itinerary
The places I visited which I would recommend adding to your itinerary include:
• Copan
• San Pedro Sula
• Tela
• La Ceiba
• Bay Islands (Roatan)
Highlights of my trip:
• Tela: Los Micos laguna trip, especially Miami Garifuna village
• Rafting on Cangrejal River
• West Bay beach is one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen
• Diving and snorkelling on Roatan (though beware of the sandflies).
Where to Go
These are some of the most popular tourist attractions:
Copán Ruins
Often you’ll hear this place shortened to Copán, and travellers might be referring to the town (which is charming and quietly awesome) or the epic Mayan ruins nearby.
The Copán Ruins is probably my favourite place in the whole of Honduras, and also the most tourist friendly.
There’s cool buildings everywhere, good restaurants, everyone speaks English, and then there are the ruins… just Google Image them, you’ll see what all the fuss is about.
Utila
Pay attention, diving aficionados. If flippers and oxygen masks are your thing, make a beeline for Utila, a little island paradise off the coast of La Ceiba. For a while, this was the premier dive site in all of Central America.
Belize may have leap-frogged it in terms of global renown (not least because the Honduran government instituted new diving taxes…awks) but it’s still a beautiful spot. There’s one settlement, Utila Town, which has a distinctly backpacker feel.
There are a few bars, dive shops and restaurants, but the real drawcard is the world-class reef just off shore. Time your trip right and you’ll spot juvenile whale sharks cruising through the clear blue waters.
Lago de Yojoa
Lago de Yojoa has a pretty bizarre story. Remote, undeveloped, ringed by tropical forest and home to many more birds than people, it’s an unlikely tourism success story, but thanks to the efforts of a local microbrewery to promote the region, it’s become the key stopover between Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula (or the Bay Islands and Nicaragua).
This isn’t just the Mother Nature’s equivalent of the dreaded airport hotel: it’s an attraction in its own right. The bird watching here by the shores of the lake is genuinely world-class (the latest count is 485 species) and action-junkies can always go tubing or zip lining on the water itself. Swimming isn’t great here as the lake is pretty shallow and full of reeds. Lucky God invented…
Parque Nacional Jeannette Kawas
A bit of a mouthful, but Parque Nacional Jeannette Kawa is probably Honduras’ most beautiful national park, at least by any sandy, beach-based metric.
White sands, endless blue water, snorkelling off-shore , the distant calls of howler monkeys in the trees around you – this is pretty much Central America at its clichéd best.
There are isolated coves where you can dive right into the surf, plus mangrove forests and tranquil lagoons around every stunning headland.
The park used to be called Parque Nacional Marino Punta Sal, but was renamed after Jeannette Kawa, a famous environmental campaigner who was tragically murdered in the mid 90s.
Mercado Guamilito
Definitely the best place to shop in San Pedro Sula, and probably the best in the whole of Honduras, this is Mercado Guamilito. Remember the name, it’s one of the coolest handicraft markets you’ll find in Central America.
You can happily wander the artesanía booths for hours, checking out the wood carvings, sculptures, leather wares, textiles and hammocks. Some of them come overland from next-door Guatemala, but most are 100% Honduran (and proud of it).
Don’t be afraid to bargain…hard-core. Bartering is a way of life in Honduras, and stallholders will expect you to haggle the price a bit. Try to keep it fun but fair.
Río Plátano Biosphere Reserve
Vine-covered Mayan ruins? Over 2000 indigenous peoples? Pumas and jaguars everywhere? Yep, this place sells itself.
Río Plátano is a World Heritage Site (has been since 1980), a massive swathe of unspoiled wilderness that’s home to a bunch of endangered species. Usually you want to visit from November to July (you’ll get the best weather) but birdwatchers will have a feast in February in March when dozens of bird species head to Río Plátano on migration.
The best base when you’re in the Reserve is Las Marias, a little village populated by Miskito and Pech families. Be prepared to rough it if you make it this deep into the jungle, but the rewards are worth it.
San Juancito / La Tigra N.P.
This small village in the beautiful Rio Chiquito valley is above all famous for its proximity to the splendid National Park of La Tigra. But it also boost the only cheap accomodation of the area, great family food served with smiles, fresh air and lots of other treks. Only 1.5 hours away from the capital, it makes the perfect gateway and a great place to relax in a natural setting.
Gracias
This charming colonial town with cobbled streets, a bit off the track from the busy Copan-San Pedro Sula route, is popular among backpackers for its nearby national park which boost the highest peak in Honduras, a virgin cloud-forest and some quetzal spotting opportunities. After the effort, you will be able to relax in the hot spring, wander around the colourful market or simply talk with the friendly locals.
Honduras Travel Tips
Check out some important things to know before you go.
How long to visit for?
One week for the islands and the dives. Another two or three weeks for the rest of the country. Whether or not you are diving in the Bay Islands will obviously affect your time spent in Honduras.
Some people are spending weeks in Honduras without leaving the islands. Being a little bit more adventurous would require at least two additional weeks on the roads, although three would be better. Going to the Mosquitia would require one additional week.
Budget
Honduras is slightly more expensive than Guatemala but it remains very reasonable for local goods or services.
On average for a few weeks trip around the whole country, expect about US$10 per day. Diving or a long stay on the more expensive islands will of course increase the expenses.
Guesthouses are reasonably priced (usually less than US$4 per person for a room without shower), a set dinner in a basic & local restaurant should cost around $2 and transportation by ‘chicken’ bus usually cost less than $1 per hour.
Beer are the cheapest in the area at $0.65 for 660ml, nearly half the cost of Guatemala. Water on the contrary is twice as expensive with the liter costing $0.26 minimum.
Like in the other neighboring countries, imported goods are more expensive (or much more expensive) than at home and shopping in the supermarkets is a very frustrating experience as most goods are imported : you won’t save much there !
Visa?
Most developed nationalities will be given 30 days upon entry. You can stay up to 6 months in Honduras, by extending your visa every month. This cost L30 and can be done at the immigration office of most localities. After 5 extensions, you need to leave the country for at least 3 days.
When to go?
From the touristy point of view, Honduras is still fairly relaxed and can be visited year-round. The two exceptions are Copan Ruinas in the South and the Bay Islands on the North Coast where prices are likely to increase a bit. The busiest time are December to Eastern, summer and the carnival of La Ceiba during one week in May, when 200,000 people show up in the area and reservation becomes essential.
Weather
From the weather point of view, Honduras must be splited between the central highlands, where the weather is temperate year round (and cool in the evening) and the coasts & flatlands, usually hot & humid.
The rainy season (“invierno” or winter) run from May to November but the rain usually take place in the late afternoon only so there is no reason not to visit. It rains regularly year-round on the North coast and it can last for the whole day.
October and November is the hurricane season there and should be best skipped, since flooding may affect transportation. Water visibility is best from March to September.
Money
The US dollar is accepted everywhere, and if you don’t have Lempiras with you, people will simply exchange it, although the rate will not always be the right one (it won’t differ a lot though).
When I was there, the rate was 14,7 L for 1 US$. Credit cards are accepted in most tourist places, however most of these places will add an additional handling charge of 6 to 8 %. Exceptions to this rule where the more expensive resorts in Roatan, some travel agents and Garifuna tours in Tela (no handling charge there).
You’ll also have to pay local taxes on most items. These taxes seem to increase all the time and are now at 16%. This will be added to most of your bills like in restaurants, hotels etc. Most of the times this is mentioned on the menu, sometimes it’s not.
Hotels
Hotels are available in every class in most places of Honduras. Cheaper places can be had for about 150 to 200 L. More expensive places can charge 80 US$ and up. These prices never include breakfast, and usually taxes have to be added as well. The more expensive hotels usually have special rates for residents. It’s definitely worth asking for a discount during low season, and you’ll probably get a 30% discount.
Sightseeing
Sightseeing is not so cheap as you might expect. A visit to Copan ruins including museum will cost 15 US$, visiting the tunnels will set you back another 12 US$. This is in fact more then Tikal for instance. Also visiting the nature reserves can be expensive, since most of them are not so easily accessible, so getting there involves more expensive means of transportation. In this regard, visiting the parks around Tela is much cheaper then visiting the parks around La Ceiba.
Safety
When reading about Honduras, you will always read that some places are dangerous and should be avoided.
Fortunately I didn’t have problems, nothing got stolen, and I didn’t feel unsafe or anything, so I’ll merely repeat here what we’ve read and what we’ve heard from locals. Because that’s indeed remarkable, that more then once locals told us to be careful here or there:
• Be careful with your luggage around bus stations in San Pedro and El Progreso.
• Avoid walking outside of the center in San Pedro at night.
• Avoid walking on the beach in Tela, especially at night: robberies and rapings have been reported here.
• Be careful in La Ceiba at night, also someone told us you cannot always trust the taxi drivers here.
If you are worried about travelling solo, or have concerns about crime, a small group trip might be the way to go. Some international operators have been travelling to Honduras for years and have had very few troubles. Some trips travel throughout Central America and include stops at popular destinations like the Copán site (you’ll see why when you get there). At the end of the day though, it’s your call.
Health
Malaria
Honduras is considered by the World Health Organisation (WHO) to be in an A-zone, meaning Chloroquine is the first choice prophylactic drug here, take 300 mg once a week.
However, risk for malaria is not everywhere the same in Honduras: Risk is highest in rural areas of Choluteca, Cortes, Colon, Valle and Yoro. Risk is lower in places like Atlantida, El Paraiso, Gracias a Dios, Islas de la Bahia and Orlancho. Other locations have minimal risks.
You might be aware that there are different strains of malaria, with 1 potentially lethal (plasmodium falciparum). Until recently, the falciparum strain was considered to be very rare (about 2% of cases), thus the WHO says you could also take precautions without drugs.
However, a recent report reported a much higher incidence of this falciparum strain, namely 21% of 200 malaria infected patients. none of these patients came from cities. In short, in urban areas risk is very low, but in rural areas, be more careful.
Hepatitis A
If you travel with a backpack and don’t mind eating in cheap restaurants, it’s easy to catch Hepatitis A. Chances of getting infected range from 1/300 to 1/50 per month depending on your standard of travelling.
It’s not dangerous, but you will be sick for some weeks. There is a good vaccination for Hepatitis A nowadays, so ask your doctor. You need 2 shots (used to be 3 shots) at 0 and 6 months, although if you can it’s even better to postpone the second shot till after 12 months.
They are expensive, but they protect you for 10 years.
Hepatitis B
You can only get this through sex and blood transfusion. Since prevalence of Hepatitis B is much higher in SE Asia then in the Western world, it might be wise to get vaccinated. Get your shots at 0, 1 and 6 months. They are equally expensive as hepatitis A.
Typhoid fever
There is also a good vaccination consisting of 3 pills to be taken every 2 days. Take them early enough before you leave since it’s better not to combine them with malaria pills, although these guidelines have recently changed (meaning you can combine them). The vaccination works for 3 years.
Travellers Diarrhoea
Always pack antibiotics at hand in case of diarrhoea. You might want to take Ciproxine 250 mg two tablets at once and then another 3 tablets, one tablet every 12 hours.
Plan Your Trip to Honduras
I enjoyed my trip to Honduras but I think it depends of course also a bit on what you expect.
Don’t expect the majestic Mayan ruins as found in Guatemala or Mexico. Copan is nice and worth a visit, but it can’t match Tikal or Palenque. Also I didn’t see any Indians with their colourfull dresses, although if I would have spent more time in Copan, I would probably have seen them.
I did see some marvellous Garifuna villages, and all the people I met on the mainland were incredibly friendly, much more so then in Mexico where you’re just another tourist. Also, you’ll be able to take marvellous pictures from the locals, since no one ever refused their picture taken, sometimes they even offer you to have their picture taken. So this is definitely one reason to visit Honduras: the people are so friendly.
Another good reason are the beautiful nature parks. I only visited a few of them, but they were really beautiful. I also did amazing rafting on the Cangrejal river. This was pretty spectacular, even during the dry season.
The main reason people go to Honduras is of course the Bay Islands. It is definitely worth going there, although it’s difficult to compare with the mainland. It’s much more a tourist destination and most of the tourist business is under foreign control, with consequently higher prices.
The mainland of Honduras is definitely an off-the-beaten-track destination. Of course, May is low season, but I hardly saw any tourists on the mainland. The Bay Islands are of course more touristic.