Morocco Travel and Backpacking Guide

Morocco desert

Morocco is one of my favorite North African countries as it has everything from sweeping deserts to dramatic mountain ranges, and everything in between. Situated in North Africa, Morocco is a captivating country where centuries of history and tradition can still be felt through the streets.

Stroll through centuries-old medinas, trek the Atlas Mountains, and drink mint tea on the terrace of a riad overlooking the ocean. These are just a few of the possibilities when traveling Morocco, a country steeped in history and rich in culture.

Partly colonized by both France and Spain, Morocco has also been largely shaped by Islam. As a result, the country exhibits a unique and intriguing combination of European and Middle Eastern culture.

Straddling the Atlantic, the Mediterranean, and the Sahara Desert, the landscape of Morocco is as varied as the culture. Beautiful beaches line the coast, but further inland you will find the massive Atlas Mountains and further still lies the vastness of the Sahara, the largest non-polar desert on Earth.

Morocco is easy to get to, compared to many other destinations in Africa, and food and accommodation expenses are reasonable. Flights from Europe are incredibly cheap and you can even take an inexpensive ferry from Spain. Once you’re there, you may not want to leave. The food is delicious, the people are incredible, and the attractions are seemingly endless.

View my tips for backpacking and traveling in Morocco, and go experience this magical country for yourself.

Key Facts

Capital City: Rabat
Currency: Moroccan Dirham, MAD
Language: Arabic
Time Zone: 0 GMT
Dialling Code: +212

Practical Information

Total Area:
446,550 square kilometres

Population Size:
32,725,847

Religions Practised:
Islam

Voltage and Plug Info:
127/220 V. European plug with two round metal pins.

Visas:
Morocco has fairly relaxed visa requirements; most nationalities are allowed to stay in the country for up to 90 days without a visa. There are exceptions though; Israelis and many African countries, like South Africa. For stays of more than 90 days, contact the embassy.

Why Go

A mish mash of spectacular scenery: the fertile plains filled with cactus and long legged sheep frame the magnificent Atlas Mountains. The mountains climb the centre of the country jutting through the clouds, and their snowcaps are a popular Moroccan skiing destination.

The mountains give way to the beautiful and vast Sahara desert spanning a third of the country. The desert is dotted with ancient biblical looking settlements surrounded by the palm tree oases that inhabit this part of Morocco.

Bustling markets that have been trading for 1000s of years constantly break the peaceful enormity of this scenery. These are often enclosed in the old medinas that have been developed over the years with beautiful Islamic architecture. In the south east of the country there are spectacular gorges that cut through the earth towards the small fishing villages that are scattered down the west coast of Africa.

Morocco is a country from a storybook. There is the frenzied bustle of the Marrakech souq where storytellers and snake charmers elbow aside merchants and water sellers to fight for your custom, along side mounds of exotic spices and brightly coloured clothes that line the narrow streets of the medina.

To contrast with this hustle and bustle of the busy souqs the only movement to be seen on the stark mountains of the High Atlas comes from a farmer slowly ploughing a furrow through a stony patch of ground with two donkeys.

Morocco has experienced many different cultures arriving on its shores.

From the Berbers to the Arabs to the French, Morocco is a mixture of African, Arab and European culture. Streets have delicate French patisseries next to mosques built into ancient joint houses that run throughout the town.

With satellite dishes poking out of the top of isolated sun-dried houses in the middle of the desert to a goat herder pulling out his mobile phone at the top of a mountain, Morocco is full of paradoxes.

Although this mixture exists the main religion of Morocco is Islam. Islamic culture is in some ways extremely different from our own and in others incredibly similar, but one that is fascinating to learn about and often misunderstood.

Moroccan culture is however, a world away from that which we know in Europe. To be able to live in and understand such a unique country and culture is a privilege that many people will never be able to experience. The diversity and warmth of the people makes it a country that will stay in your heart forever.

Morocco is also an important Francophone country that looks to Europe, and France in particular, but is very aware of its global position in the world.

Weather & Best Time to Visit

Morocco has a varying climate depending on where you are at in relation to the mountains, coast, and the desert.

Generally, the best times to travel are in spring (March to May), when the country is temperate and very green, and in autumn (September to November) when the heat of the summer dissapates and winter has not yet set in.

If you do travel in winter, there are a number of destinations that will still be comfortable, including Agadir and many of the cities and towns on the southern coast.

Getting There and Away

Morocco has a choice of international airports in Marrakech, Fes, Casablanca, Tangier and Agadir, with good connections to the rest of Africa, Europe and the Middle East. If you’re arriving from southern Spain, you can catch a ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar (though check in advance, as times and regularity can vary).

Visa & Border Crossings

A visa is not required for travel to Morocco as long as the stay is 90 days or less. The most common way to enter Morocco is via air from Europe, but there are several other options.

Spain – There are several ferry options for travel between Morocco and Spain. The most popular option is to take a ferry that leaves from Algeciras on the Spanish side. You can either travel to Tangier or Ceuta (Spanish Morocco). Generally, Ceuta is better if you are driving your own car, because Ceuta is a duty-free zone (gas is cheaper) and there is less traffic. If you are traveling by public transport, Tangier is better because you will have more options to get to other destinations in the country.

France & Italy – There are also ferries that leave France and Italy for Tangier. These are generally more expensive and take longer (36 hours from France and 48 hours from Italy). In France, ferries leave from Sete and in Italy they leve from Genoa.

Algeria – The land border between Algeria and Morocco is currently closed. This is due to an ongoing dispute between Morocco and Algeria over the independence of Western Sahara.

Mauritania via Western Sahara – This overland border crossing is a bit complicated and may be considered dangerous (roads are not clearly marked and there are landmines). If you are doing it in a private vehicle, you should have a guide who is familiar with the road. By public transport you can take a bus for part of the way, but then you must switch to a bush taxi that will take you through Western Sahara.

Getting Around

Morocco has surprisingly good transport links that connect its major cities and towns. The train system is efficient, and where there are no trains you can almost always catch a bus. You can hire a car in Morocco, but it isn’t that cheap.

Best Things to Do

Marrakech bazaar

Don’t get me wrong – I adore Morocco’s cities. Essaouira is coastal bliss, Marrakech is medina heaven, and Fes is a vibrant, overwhelming, medieval gem that sums up the phrase ‘feast for the senses’. But some of the most spectacular parts of the country can be found outside of these urban haunts.

Visit cultural highlights such as the Koutoubia, a 12th century mosque and garden, or marvel at the Bahia Palace – an ornate 19th century palace complex. And for those who love design? Head to the stunning Ben Youssef Madrasa, an immaculately well preserved 14th-century former Islamic school adorned in colourful tiles and beautiful Moroccan architecture.

Spend time wandering the Medina, getting lost down the dusty alleys and discovering stalls selling local spices, traditional mint tea or unique souvenirs. The souks in Morocco will instantly transport you to another world where colour and exotic aromas reign.

But these are also lots of places to see outside of the cities. But where should you go? Well, too much beauty to quantify, but I’ve started you off with some amazing destinations:

Marrakesh
Widely considered the most important former imperial city, Marrakesh is perhaps Morocco’s number one tourist destination. The market area (known as a souk) is the largest in the country and the main square, Djemaa el Fna, with its snake charmers, musicians, and acrobats, provides an iconic image of Morocco.

Casablanca
Casablanca (or Casa as it is affectionately known) is the largest city in Morocco and all of North Africa for that matter. It is a bustling cosmopolitan city in which European styles collide with Islamic traditions. The Hassan II Mosque, the largest in Morocco and third largest in the world, is here, along with a recently restored medina, and the largest port in the country. Casa also boasts a vibrant cafe culture and it is one of the few places in Morocco where you can dance the night away in a club.

Essaouira
Known as the “windy city of Africa,” Essaouira is popular with kitesurfers and windsurfers. But Essaouira also draws many visitors because of its medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Listed city. Lying on the Atlantic, this fortified city provides numerous opportunities to get lost in its labyrinth allies, amidst all manner of shops, traditional apothecaries, and food vendors.

Agadir
This beachside town in southern Morocco is a popular destination for Europeans escaping the winter cold. The weather is pleasant here year round with average daily temperatures of 22 degrees Celsius (72 degrees Fahrenheit). The expansive beach is the main attraction here, but there is also a bustling souk and a number of excellent cafes and restaurants.

The Sahara
OK, so I had to start with an obvious one…But what a gem the Sahara is. One of the largest deserts in the world, the landscape here really has to be seen to be believed – the sand dunes are that surreal (and beautiful). The easiest dunes to visit are called Erg Chebbi; and are right next to a sleepy lil town called Merzouga.

Getting there isn’t easy, but IS one epic journey through mountains and eye-catching desert towns. And when you arrive at the desktop background-esque desert, you’ll be in literal awe. If you travel there on a tour, you get a full-on camel ride at sunset, followed by overnight stay in a private desert camp. Yep, it doesn’t get cooler than sleeping under the stars with a bunch of new friends. I think it’s fair to say that the Sahara is one for the bucket list.

Talassemtane National Park
This national park is in a less well-known area, but a no less beautiful one. Situated high in the Rif region of Northern Morocco it’s just brimming with natural wonders. (It’s also pretty close to Chefchaouen, a stunning mountain town that’s genuinely painted all blue.)

Originally established to conserve the last of Morocco’s threatened fir forests, the park is now a hiker’s paradise. Try make it to ‘God’s Bridge’, a natural stone arch 25 meters above the river. Also worth an explore are the gorgeous waterfalls under an hour away, Cascades d’Akchour, and the deepest cave in Morocco, Kef Toghobeit.

The Atlas Mountains
CNN have called the Atlas Mountains “Morocco’s hidden travel gem”, so it’s with good authority that I say they’re worth checking out. Extending across much of northwestern Africa (Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia) and separating the coastline from the desert (jeez, what a varied country), they’re pretty wondrous.

Within the mountain range you can find traditional Berber village, canyons and ravines, and even an array of climates! The highest peak lies within Toubkal National Park. Not too far from Marrakech, it’s a picturesque must-see in central-western Morocco. Another highlight is the mountain pass of Tizi ‘n Tichka (pictured above) – a whopping 2,260 meters above sea level, it’s the highest pass on the road to Marrakech. It often gets covered with snow during the winter months, which is a pretty special sight.

Todra Gorge
The Todra Gorge is one of the prettiest, most intriguing places you’ve never heard of (I’m speaking from experience). Situated close to the town of Tinerhir, on the east side of the High Atlas Mountains (yep, that area again), the canyon is surrounded by dazzling, high cliffs. It’s one heck of an awe-inspiring place to stroll through. Thank the otherworldly scenery and remote Moroccan location.

Ifrane
So technically Ifrane maybe shouldn’t be included on this list since it’s both a town and one that’s situated in the Atlas Mountains (see above). BUT the mountain resort is so cool and unique that it warrants a separate mention. Sometimes referred to as “the Switzerland of Morocco”, the town was built by the French and is now known for its alpine-style architecture and nearby ski slopes.

Fes
In case you hadn’t realized yet, Morocco is a country with literally everything going for it – from deserts to snow-covered mountains. The spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco is totally unique, it is also close to waterfalls, cedar forests, farmland and so much more natural beauty.

Chefchaouen
The Blue City, so called because of the many residences and buildings that are painted blue, is situated in the Rif Mountains, not far from Tangier. Far from the hustle and bustle of Morocco’s major cities, Chefchaouen offers an opportunity to relax in a beautiful mountain setting. You can also buy many handmade crafts here that are unavailable in the rest of the country, wool garments and blankets, for example. It is quickly becoming a major tourist destination, however, and may soon be less of a peaceful refuge.

Accommodation

Morocco has a variety of accommodation options. There are luxurious hotels, bed and breakfasts, hostels and traditional riads. For a true Moroccan experience, I recommend staying in a riad. A riad is a traditional house with a terrace on the roof and an inner courtyard.

In many riads, a comfortable private room with a bathroom will cost you $15-20. There are usually family-run and will provide a chance to really get to know Moroccan culture. In addition, they are often located within the medina (the old part of the city) and you can easily walk to the souk and the different attractions.

Money & Costs

The currency in Morocco is the Moroccan Dirham. The exchange rate is roughly 10 Moroccan Dirhams to $1 USD. There are ATM machines throughout the country and many take both visa and mastercard. Visa is more widely accepted, however. Credit cards are accepted at some businesses, but there is often a 5% surcharge for use.

It is common to tip in Morocco for any and every service (5-10% is common). Also, it must be noted that bargaining is a very important aspect of life in Morocco. When you are a souk, be prepared to haggle!

Morocco is a very reasonable country to travel in. Filling meals can be had for US$5 and less and you can find comfortable accomodation in riads for $15-20 a night. Public transportation by bus and train is also inexpensive. That said, Morocco has plenty of options for luxury hotels and five star restaurants. It all depends on your budget and your style of travel.

Food & Drink

Morocco is a delight for foodies and the birthplace of some incredible indigenous treats, combining sweet and spicy flavours and age-old cooking techniques to create truly incredible meals.

There’s tagine, a Berber dish that gets its name from the traditional dome-shaped pot it’s cooked in – it’s a spicy mixture of chickpeas, vegetables, and meat slow steamed over coals. Head to Les Blancs, Agadir’s most famous seafood restaurant, to sample a fabulous fish version of the traditional tagine.

Then there’s harira, a soup made from lentils, chickpeas, cinnamon and coriander and, for those who want something a little hardier, pastille, a filo pastry filled with chicken, parsley, cinnamon, saffron and almonds and sprinkled with sugar.

Many restaurants in Agadir, like Le Jardin d’Eau, offer regional dishes like this alongside French and Mediterranean specialities.

Tipping

Tipping and bargaining is a way of life here so there are no hard and fast rules. You can also tip in US dollars.

Many restaurants in Morocco include a service charge on the bill, but if not, it’s nice to leave 5-10 per cent, or a few extra dirhams.

Leave the hotel maid around 20 dirhams per night, roughly 100 per week, and the bell boy 10 dirhams. However, if you want to leave more do so as Moroccan service workers are paid poorly.

Beware that a befuddled “I’m lost” look will get you plenty of offers from unofficial guides, but 10 dirhams might just be worth good directions. If you’re getting about in a cab, round up your fare to the nearest 5 dirhams.

People & Culture

Locals
Moroccan hospitality is deservedly renowned. People are quick to invite you into their homes and share what they have. In public, it is the men who are most visible. This is largely due to the predominant Islamic culture. Women are often partially covered when outside and generally don’t go to bars or nightclubs (those that do are typically viewed as prostitutes). This is changing somewhat, however, in the larger cities, notably Casablanca, where young people go out late into the night.

Moroccans have a great sense of humour and it’s important to not take any situation too seriously. You will be approached, especially in tourist areas, by vendors trying to sell you just about everything. They may come across as aggressive, but understand that they mean no harm. Feel free to joke with them and have a conversation. Remember that if you do want to buy something, you should always bargain for it – bargaining is very important aspect of Moroccan culture!

Communication

Language
Moroccan Arabic is the most widely spoken language in the country, followed by French and Spanish. Berber is also commonly spoken, especially as you travel further inland. English is spoken by some in touristy areas, but don’t count on it.

Phones
Almost everyone has a cell phone in Morocco. SIM cards are cheap and local calls are inexpensive as well. Meditel, IAM, and Maroc Telecom are three of the largest networks. They all compete with each other and have similar rates.

Internet
Cafes with WiFi are everywhere, especially in larger urban areas like Rabat, Tangier, and Casablanca.

Safety

Morocco is keen to improve tourist safety, but pick pocketing is still common, especially at night in Fez and Marrakech. There are scams aplenty to fall foul of in the souks, so although the police are cracking down heavily on them, keep your wits about you.

Don’t walk about alone at night, and – if you’re a woman – keep clothing long, loose and light to avoid attracting unwanted attention. Another thing: weed is common, especially in the northern Rif Mountains. Moroccan prisons aren’t the nicest, so best turn down any offers.

Tips for Solo Women Travelers

If you are a solo female traveler, you may have to deal with a fair amount of unwanted male attention. Men will sometimes say “how many camels?” in an effort to determine how much it would cost to marry you. Generally, a firm and confident response will turn them away.

If a man is persistent in his harassment tell him that you will go to the police. If you avoid eye contact and dress conservatively, you will save yourself a lot of trouble. Also, keep in mind that visiting a bar or nightclub alone may cast you in an unfavourable light. Many of the women that frequent bars are prostitutes.

Vaccinations and Health

It’s very easy to catch “Delhi Belly” in Morocco. Only drink bottled water and don’t shower with your mouth open, avoid fresh salads and peel raw fruit and veggies. You probably won’t need to get any vaccinations before you travel (especially if you’re sticking to the big cities) but it’s best to check with your doctor just in case.

Read & Watch

Casablanca – While the Casablanca you visit may not be the same Casablanca of this storied film, it is worth watching to get a sense for the mystique that still surrounds this city.

Allah’s Garden – This excellent work of non-fiction by Thomas Hollowell discusses the tragic and ongoing conflict over Western Sahara.

Guidebooks – There are guidebooks on Morocco from many notable companies including Lonely Planet, Frommer’s, Fodor’s and the Rough Guide.