Landlocked, in the heart of West Africa, Mali is often overlooked, but it is truly a treasure.
The third largest river in Africa, the Niger, snakes through Mali’s Sahelian landscape. The inner Niger Delta, verdant during the rainy season, is home to a variety of wildlife. Fabled Timbuktu with its rich history, lies sandwiched between the Sahara and the Niger, in the north of the country.
Dogon Country provides an altogether different landscape, replete with building sized boulders and red cliffs marked by patchy vegetation. It is here that you will also find some of the most interesting cultural traditions on the continent. This is to say nothing of bustling Bamako or Djenne, home to the world’s largest mud Mosque.
Mali has made headlines recently for a spate of violence between the army and rebel groups. As a result, many foreign governments have issued travel warnings for Mali. This is truly unfortunate. While it is dangerous to travel northeast of Timbuktu, these travel warnings are disproportionate to the threat but you do need to check latest information before departing here.
As it stands, many people are missing out on the beautiful culture of Mali and the country’s many attractions. Do you want to be one of them? if you are keen to plan a trip to Mali, note this country is quite off the tourist trail and not many tour operators even offer trips here. Independently travel and backpacking is possible though, view my tips for planning the ultimate experience in Mali.
Visa & Border Crossings
A three month single entry visa for Mali costs $131 USD for US citizens. For citizens of other countries the visa cost is $80 USD. Visas can be arranged with a Malian embassy (if you don’t have a Malian embassy in your country, you can file for one through the Malian embassy in Paris) before traveling or if you are traveling overland you can stop at a Malian embassy in one of the bordering countries.
In addition, visas are available on arrival at the airport, but make sure to check with your airline before traveling – some will not let you on the plane without a visa.
Mali borders six countries, but some of these borders are not safely passable on a consistent basis. The border with Algeria is straight desert and is not widely traveled. The border with Niger is considered by many to be unsafe because of terrorist groups operating in the region.
The following border crossings are widely traveled and considered to be safe:
Burkina Faso – Main border crossing is at the Malian town of Benena. This border crossing is the main point of transit between Mali and Burkina Faso.
Cote d’Ivoire – Main border crossing is at the Malian town of Manankoro. While the Ivorian side of this border crossing is controlled by non-Government forces, I have crossed this border without incident. Pay attention to local news and research before hand.
Senegal – There are two principle border crossings between Senegal and Mali. Kidira, Senegal and Nayé, Senegal. Nayé is served by the Bamako-Dakar railway, but passenger service has been indefinitely suspended.
Guinea – The main border crossing into Guinea is at the Malian town of Kalana, in the south of the country.
Mauritania – There are two border crossings between Mali and Mauritania, one south from Ayoun el Arous, Mauritania and the other south of Nema, Mauritania. There is bus service between Bamako and Nouakchott. It is not advised to use private transport when traveling over these border crossings.
Tourist Trail & Attractions
Mali does indeed have something of a tourist trail. Well known sights like Timbuktu and Djenne have often attracted adventurous travelers to the country.
Dogon Country – The Dogon people are one of the most mysterious and often misunderstood cultural groups in Mali. They live in and around an area called the Bandiagara escarpment, red cliffs that lie east and south of the Niger river. You can take treks of varying lengths through Dogon Country, staying with families, visiting villages and markets, and sleeping on rooftops (bring a mosquito net!). This is not to be missed – the scenery is stunning and Dogon culture is fascinating. You can arrange treks in the nearby towns of Mopti and Sevare.
Djenne – Djenne, also located close to Mopti and Sevare, is home to the world’s largest mud mosque (in fact, it is the largest mud building in the world), and one of the most colorful markets in Africa. The mosque was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1988. The town has been inhabited since 250 BC and the vibrant market is one of the oldest continuously running markets on the continent. Transport is easily arranged from Bamako, Mopti, or Sevare.
Timbuktu – The fabled town lies on the edge of the encroaching Sahara and it feels every bit as magical and historical as advertised. There are no longer caravans stretching for miles and the trade route is largely tackled by trucks rather than camels, but many of the original houses are still in tact and the three mosques that have been around since Timbuktu’s inception, still stand.
While security concerns have kept many people away from Timbuktu, no one has actually been kidnapped from the town and Mali has stepped security in the region considerably. As always, research the situation before hand. Transportation can be arranged from Bamako and Mopti. You can also take a variety of water transportation from Mopti.
Off the Tourist Trail
Sikasso – Sikasso is one of the most interesting and overlooked regions in Mali. It is here where you will find the awesome power of Wassoulou music and you will see a lush and green side of Mali that can’t be found elsewhere in the country. Enjoy avocados and other fresh produce, swim in waterfalls, and listen to some of Mali’s most famed songstresses (most of Mali’s established female vocalists come from this region). Sikasso is easily reached with transport from Bamako or Segou.
Bamako – It is hard to consider Bamako off the tourist trail because almost everyone begins their trip in Mali here. However, a lot of people try to spend as little time here as possible as they make their way to more well known sites. This is unfortunate, because Bamako has a lot to offer. Take in the Grand Marche (a sprawling, vibrant market), visit the National Museum, and check out some of the greatest live music you will see anywhere (check out the Diplomat on the weekends and don’t be surprised to see some of Mali’s musical stars playing here).
Niafunke – Niafunke lies just south of Timbuktu. It is rarely visited, because most people consider Timbuktu to be the only attraction in the region. Niafunke is home to some of the greatest Songhai musicians and a visit to this village offers a unique insight into Songhai culture. Here you will find Fulani herders, Tuaregs, and Songhai villagers all living together on the banks of the Niger River.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Mali has several distinct seasons. The rainy season runs from June to September, with the wettest months being July and August. The hottest months are between April and June. The cooler months in Mali are from November to January.
Malians often refer to this time as the cold season even though temperatures are still in the 30 degree (celsius) range. This is the best time to come to Mali. From January until June, the Harmattan winds blow from the Sahara, casting a dusty haze over most of the country.
Money & Costs
Mali, like the rest of Francophone West Africa, uses the CFA, which is pegged to the Euro. Day to day expenses are relatively low, but accommodation can be expensive. Expect to see prices of $40 a night at a minimum (less if it is a hostel) if you are looking for hotels in popular areas.
You can eat well for $2-3 a meal, even less if you are buying street food. Drinks are similarly cheap. ATMs are easily accessible in Bamako and Mopti, but make sure you take enough cash if you are traveling away from these areas. Visa card is widely accepted and you may run into problems if you try to take money out with anything else.
People
The richness of Malian culture is owed to the fact that there are more than four major cultural groups in the country: Bambara, Dogon, Songhai, Tuareg and Fulani. That’s in addition to numerous smaller groups, as well as immigrants from other countries in the region.
Malians have a deserved reputation for being welcoming and generous and they have an incredible sense of humor. The national icebreaker, known as cousinage in French, involves insulting people based on their family name.
When two Malians from different families meet for the first time, they hurl insults at each other, then laugh about it and embrace. The insults range from “you eat beans” to “you are my slave.” I recommend learning some Bambara and picking up a few insults, you will have a lot of fun with it!
Accommodation
Accommodation in Mali is somewhat expensive, depending on what you are looking for. $40 is a typical price for a hotel room with a full or queen sized bed, and a private bathroom. The price goes down with hotels that feature a shared bathroom and/or bucket showers.
There are a few hostels around the country. The Sleeping Camel in Bamako is one of the most well-run hostels in West Africa. Expect to pay $8 USD for clean, comfortable dormitory style accommodation. They also have an excellent restaurant and bar, and a nice garden area.
In Mopti, the Catholic Mission offers cheap and simple dormitory style accommodation and another hostel, Y’a pas de Probleme Hostel, while slightly more expensive, offers comfortable beds as well as a restaurant and terrace.
Communication
Language – French is the official language of Mali, but Bambara is the most widely spoken language. Fula, Sonrai, and Dogon are also major languages in the country. Few people speak English and in rural areas, few people speak French.
Phones – There are two priniciple cell phone networks in Mali: Orange and Malitel. Cell phones are everywhere and even in villages, you will find that most people have one. Sim cards are just a dollar or two. Local calls are cheap and it’s worth it to travel with an unlocked phone or buy a cheap one at the market once you arrive.
Internet – Internet is easy to find in Bamako. Outside of Bamako, internet is harder to find. Even in Bamako do not expect to find fast connection speeds.
Food & Drink
Like many other Francophone countries in West Africa, food in Mali has been influenced by French cuisine.
It is easy to find baguettes and salads served with vinaigrettes are relatively common. Traditional Malian cuisine is also delicious and a few stand out dishes are sauce arachide (peanut sauce, called tigadege in Bambara), sauce tomate (a tomato based sauce) and sauce onione (also known as Yassa, this is a dish from Senegal that features a lemon, onion, and chili maranade).
Dogon Country offers its own unique cuisine with millet dishes featured prominently. All along the Niger River, you will be able to find Capitaine, a delicious white fish that is plentiful in the river. La Capitaine Sangha is a mouth watering dish of grilled capitaine, chili sauce, fried bananas, and rice.
In some parts of Mali it can be hard to find alcoholic beverages as it is a predominantly Muslim country. Flag and Castel are two beers readily available in most cities. Millet beer can also be found in many places, especially Dogon Country. Another common drink in Mali is called Bissap, it is a non-alcoholic beverage made from boiled hibiscus leaves.
Health
Malaria is endemic in Mali, and you should purchase anti-malarial prophylactics before traveling. P. Falciparum, the most lethal strain of malaria, is present in Mali. I have come down with Malaria twice before (the prophylactics are not 100% foolproof, but they probably made the symptoms less severe) and both times I treated it with Coartem, a medication that can be used for stand-by emergency malaria treatment.
Consult a travel health clinic before going to get necessary immunizations and recommendations for anti-malarials. A Yellow Fever vaccine is required to get into the country and I would also recommend a Typhoid vaccine. Coartem, and anti-malarials like malarone and doxycycline can be purchased cheaply at any local pharmacy in Mali. 30 Doxycycline tabs will run you about 2,000 CFA ($4 USD) and a box of Coartem should cost around 4,000 CFA ($8 USD).
You can take all the precautions you want, but you most likely still come down with some form of traveler’s diarrhea. I’m not telling you this to give you license to eat and drink freely – make sure food is fully cooked, peel or wash fruits and vegetables, and do not drink the tap water.
I’m just telling you that despite careful eating, you will still have a few, maybe many, bad experiences sitting on a toilet or squatting over a hole in the ground. To treat traveler’s diarrhea, take rehydration salts (can be purchased for less than a dollar at any pharmacy in Mali) with water. Imodium and Pepto-Bismol only treat symptoms and in the case of Imodium, they will do more harm than good (it slows down your gut, keeping the bacteria in longer).
If diarrhea lasts longer than a few days, take ciprofloxacin, the atomic bomb of antiobiotics, which you can purchase at any pharmacy. If there is blood in the diarrhea or your exhibiting other symptoms like fever or sulfur burps (sulfur burps = giardia, have fun!), get to a clinic as soon as possible.
Safety
There are instances of petty crime in Bamako. Take care with your belongings and if you are out late at night, take a cab instead of walking long distances. In the neighborhood of ACI 2000, there have been an increasing number of robberies at night. Elsewhere in the country, all forms of crime are essentially nonexistent.
Many European countries in addition to the UK and the US, currently have a travel warning for Mali. While some of these warnings cover the entire country, most are focused on the North, and the area around Timbuktu in particular. While it is true that there have been several kidnappings in Mali, these have happened north and east of Timbuktu, close to the border of Niger.
Chances are, you will not be traveling to this region of Mali. As always, research the situation ahead of time and use your best judgment.
Music & Dance
Malian music is rightly world renowned. From the magical guitar music of the north to the Wassoulou songstresses of the south, Malian music is some of the most powerful on earth.
A few artists that should be on your radar before you go: Oumou Sangare, Ali Farka Toure (deceased, but you will still hear his music everywhere), Vieux Farka Toure (his son), Mamou Sidibe, Tinariwen, Ami Wassidje, Salif Keita, Toumani Diabate, Baba Salah, Boubacar Traore, Habib Koite, and Amadou et Mariam.
Each cultural group offers unique forms of dance. Dances from the north are the most restrained, but they are also elegant and graceful. Dogon dances are perhaps the most interesting because they often involve masked dancers. You can take dance lessons in Bamako for reasonable prices and you can also watch the national ballet practice at the palais de la culture (also in Bamako).
Volunteering & Good Causes
There are lots of opportunities for volunteering or to teach English in Mali as this is becoming a desired skill. If you are able to speak French and English you could do volunteer teaching in a variety of capacities.
In Bamako, there are a number of great organizations to get involved with. Some run a community center in Bamako where kids from one of the poorest neighborhoods learn a craft, while also receiving training in literacy and health.
Another organization works to empower women in and around Bamako to transform their communities. They focus on public health, entrepreneur ship, and community problem solving.
For options view this Africa volunteering guide.
Read & Watch
Guidebooks – Mali is featured in Lonely Planet’s West Africa guidebook and Bradt has also written a travel guide on Mali alone. You can also find considerable information through online research.
God’s Bits of Wood by Sembene Ousmane – While Sembene Ousmane is from Senegal, this story takes place partly in Mali. It chronicles the efforts to build the Dakar-Bamako railway in pre-independence Senegal and Mali. The workers, all West African, strike against the French controllers, and put on a staggering campaign of resistance. This is a must read if you are traveling to Francophone West Africa.
“M’Bife” – Amadou et Mariam – This blind, married couple has been writing love songs to each other for over thirty years. M’Bife means “I love you” in Bambara. In addition to being a beautiful song, this video offers some great photos from throughout Mali.
Plan Your Trip to Mali
Hopefully my guide has given you a better understanding of the country and the logistics of traveling within it. View my other destination travel guides for more inspiration.