Kenya has long been a premier destination for wildlife and the wild African animal safari experience. With major cities, white sand beaches, the second highest peak in Africa, and charming cultures, Kenya not only offers top class safaris, but many other thrilling travel opportunities!
Kenya is one of the most diverse and beautiful countries in Africa. There are idyllic islands on the Indian Ocean and a beautiful coastline with fine palm-studded coral sands. Not forgetting some of the most incredible safari and wildlife destinations on the planet.
A relatively stable country in the midst of the other nations that surround, Kenya has grown into a bustling Central African hub and East Africa’s financial capital. It’s geographic location, with access to the Indian Ocean has been of great benefit for the shipping and trade industry.
Many landlocked African nations depend on the Kenyan port for import and export lifelines. People have flocked to the main cities like Nairobi and Mombasa in search of jobs, but often must settle for minuscule pay and reside in one of the many slum villages.
On the travel level, visiting Kenya is truly an opportunity of a lifetime. Though modern conveniences (water, power, transportation, communication) don’t always function as they should, Nairobi is a modern city with an adequate infrastructure that usually functions. Since most people (especially in the cities) can speak English, Kenya has an added personal communication advantage for many travellers.
View my Kenya tips for backpacking and travelling in Kenya and plan the ultimate trip today.
Getting to Kenya
Find cheap flights to Kenya on Skyscanner.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
Straddling the equator, but with multiple layers of elevation, Kenya has a range of different climate conditions. Mombasa enjoys tropical hot and humid weather (which I love!), while Nairobi with a high elevation, has temperate weather conditions.
November to December and March to May are the two main rainy seasons throughout Kenya. Even with the change of the season, there is not a huge temperature fluctuation throughout the year. Average high temperatures in Nairobi are usually in the upper 70’s °F with lows in the 50’s °F. Mombasa experiences highs in the 80’s °F and 90’s °F and lows in the 70’s °F.
Accommodation
Nairobi has a range of all sorts of accommodation options from the very luxurious to the extremely low end. The lowest local accommodation motels are very cheap ($1-2 / night), but these options usually are marked by very poor sanitary and safety conditions (not really recommended). On the opposite spectrum, there are loads of expensive resorts and hotel chains in Nairobi and along the Indian Ocean coast that can cost hundreds of dollars per night.
Guest houses and a number of hostels exist in the main cities like Nairobi and Mombasa, though they are still not overly cheap. Guest houses can cost anywhere from $20 – $30 per night for a private room and hostel prices revolve around $7 – $15 for a dorm bed.
I generally prefer accommodation in utterly lovely private houses dotted along the coast, but there are alternative boutique or classic hotel options. Certain choices are better suited to families, fishing or lower budget charismatic hideaways.
The Kenyan beaches are still lovely in parts, but the main hotspots are over-developed and quite ruined by mass-market tourism. It is still possible to find secluded enclaves, however, and there are some very exclusive, well hidden lodges dotted discreetly along the coast. Best of all is the northernmost coast on and around Lamu.
For the more budget conscious safari, self camping can be arranged to save some money and avoid staying in a resort.
Get the best deals on hotels on Booking.com.
Visa & Border Crossings
Kenya seems to change their visa fee policies quite frequently. With the 2011 fee update, single entry visas cost $25, multiple entry visa $50, and transit visa $10. Visas are quite simple to get at border crossings or when entering Kenya by air. Be sure to carry USD and 2 passport photos to easily get your visa.
Crossing into Tanzania
Namanga – The major border crossing between Kenya and Tanzania, always the most reliable option.
Lunga Lunga – On the coast, good if you are heading from Mombasa to Dar Es Salaam.
Taveta – Conveniently close to Tsavo West NP.
Isebania – Close to Lake Victoria.
Crossing into Ethiopia
Moyale – The Northern area of Kenya is known as a no-man’s land, so if you plan to overland to Ethiopia, be sure to really research the current situation.
Crossing into Uganda
Malaba – The most common border crossing, especially if you are traveling from Nairobi to Kampala.
Crossing into Sudan
Land crossings are unstable, consider flying.
Best Places to Go
The tourist trail in Kenya typically involves a prioritized wildlife safari and then a session of beach pampering on the coast; many people even strive to avoid Nairobi.
The Southern Coast:
Stretching approximately 100 kilometres down to the Tanzanian border, the most famous of the beaches here is Diani, a truly awe-inspiring stretch of white powder beach which has steadily become more and more popular and developed. Beyond Diani is Shimba, the best point for basing fishing and diving expeditions here.
The Northern Coast:
Running up to Malindi and then undeveloped until the Somali border, the northern coast is ideal for those looking to disappear. The region around Malindi and Watamu is, similar to Diani, both stunningly beautiful and beginning to become very built up, but there are still small villas and lodges that maintain a feeling of seclusion.
The Islands off the Kenya Coast:
Spanning from the south to the far north and ranging from the sand spit formations and protected lagoons of the north, to the inland waterways of Lamu and the Mangrove estuaries of the south. All of the islands have superb beaches and, generally, each has space in abundance and miles to wander at leisure.
Nairobi
Nairobi is Kenya’s largest and most developed industrial city. Many tourists fly into the capital but are unfortunately immediately whisked away on their private tour and avoid all aspects of the city. It has built a reputation for theft and a share of crime (Nai-robbery), but if one uses precautionary measures and avoids certain areas of town, things are usually hassle free. Those that appoint time for Nairobi are presented with great African art museums, Kenyan tribal exhibitions, throbbing produce and clothing markets, world class international cuisine, local roasted meat, and it’s very own Nairobi National Park.
Wildlife Safaris
Of course, Kenya is famous for safaris, and there are quite a few options to choose from. Maasai Mara, Amboseli, Tsavo East, Lake Nakuru, and the Abedares are among the more famous national parks that offer an abundance of wildlife.
The main goal of a safari is to spot what is called the “Big 5,” including lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhino. There are also a slew of other fascinating animals like hippo, cheetah, giraffe, hyena, jackal, zebra, impala, wildebeest, and many others. Depending on the park, entrance fees can range from $30 – $60 / person per day. View my tips for your first safari.
Wildebeest Migration
One of Kenya and Tanzania’s most riveting and world famous events is the annual Wildebeest migration that takes place sometime between May and June, depending on the rains. The incredible migration of 1.5 million animals (wildebeests and zebras), spans across the Serengeti plain and is one of last remaining natural land migrations.
Mombasa / Kenyan Coast
The coastal port city of Mombasa is a vibrant Kenyan city that has a rich cultural history. From Arabs to Portuguese, the East Coast of Africa has been influenced and intermingled for hundreds of years. The result is a warm and friendly culture that is surrounded by fantastic white sand beaches and swaying palms.
Malindi
White sand beaches along with coral reefs make Malindi an attractive beach destination with world class diving and snorkeling.
Lamu
The small Lamu island off the coast of Kenya includes the countries oldest inhabited town. Over the course of hundreds of years, local Bantu African tribes on Lamu have mixed with Arab traders and have been influenced by the Portuguese during exploration. The result is a fascinating island that bursts with cultural history and presents a chance to learn about the Swahili people.
Off the Tourist Trail
Mount Kenya
Often overlooked by the slightly taller Mount Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya is Africa’s second highest mountain with spectacular climbing options. The popular summit destination at Lenana Peak, provides jaw dropping views of the Kenyan coast, Mount Kilimanjaro, and everything else around! The ascent normally takes 4 – 6 days and can cost close to $100 / day for all expenses.
Kisumu
Kisumu is the third largest city in Kenya, located on the banks of Lake Victoria. A laid back atmosphere, beautiful views of the lake, fresh fish, and an abundance of hippos, make Kisumu a great place to visit. There’s also opportunities to take a boat to Ndere island or visit the Kisumu impala sanctuary.
Lake Naivasha
The area in and around Lake Naivasha is a nature paradise with opportunities to view the extensive bird life, take boat trips to Crescent Island, and relax at one of the nature camps. Lake Naivasha is an all around enjoyable place to spend a few lazy days.
Hell’s Gate National Park
Hell’s Gate is one of the few national parks in Kenya where walking and cycling are legal without the assistance of guides. The park is blessed with an array of gorgeous scenery including a canyon gorge, towers of rock formations, and a share of wildlife. When I lived in Kenya, I enjoyed many adventurous camping trips to Hell’s Gate. Watch out for those wild animals!
Marsabit
A truly off-the-beat destination, Marsabit is a town in the vast desert of the desolate Northern part of Kenya.
Eldoret
Eldoret doesn’t offer too many traditional tourist attractions, but it’s a great town to experience the real side of Kenya.
Turkana District
Turkana makes up the Northwestern part of Kenya, bordering Uganda, Sudan and Ethiopia. The area is home to the indigenous Turkana people as well as Lake Turkana, a giant desert lake.
Money & Costs
Kenya uses the Kenya Shilling (KES).
Kenya on a whole is not a real low budget traveling destination, though the industry is beginning to make changes and there are more opportunities for cheaper travel. Taking safaris at national parks are quite expensive all around with park entrance fees, transportation costs, and lodging. Depending on your personal habits and if you are willing to eat local food and stay at local hotels, $15 – $30 / day is possible. With safaris and other touristic attractions, the cost of a day can reach $100.
ATM’s, money exchanges, and banks are widely available in the major cities of Kenya. You will find ATM’s at most banks, and sometimes at other stores or petrol stations. To be on the safe side, Visa is your best bet, but Mastercard is also becoming more widely available.
The best form of cash to exchange is US dollars, printed from the year 2000 or after. $100 note bills usually fetch the best rate and you should try to keep them crisp without too many folds or corner crumples.
People
Locals
For the most part, local Kenyans are friendly and very hospitable. The big city effect in Nairobi gives it a much less friendly feeling than smaller towns like Mombasa or Kisumu, though you will still find welcoming Kenyans all over the country. Kenyans enjoy hanging out with others, laughing, joking, and conversing. It’s not uncommon to greet strangers or visit with friendly folks that you just met. Ask a Kenyan for help, and they will be glad to assist you!
Expats
With the United Nations headquarters, countless NGO’s, multiple generations of British settlers, and many banking headquarters, Kenya accommodates to plenty of expats. There are also loads of short term volunteers and mission organizations that frequent Kenya. Certain areas of Nairobi (Gigiri, Westlands), are typical gathering points for the expat community.
Travellers
Largely due to higher prices and the less traveled route of Africa, the majority of those who visit Kenya are in their mid to upper ages. Many people book their all inclusive safari holiday in their home country and visit Kenya for a week before returning to their high paying jobs. Plenty of Europeans fly straight from Europe to Mombasa during the December holidays, in search of warm sunshine and a relaxing coastal resort. Budget travellers are usually of the very adventurous type, or are part of one of the many overland travel tour groups that go through or originate in Nairobi.
Music & Dance
There’s a thriving music and dance scene throughout Kenya, especially in Nairobi and Mombasa. Traditional folk music exists, but the likes of street hip-hop and coastal reggae are the most popular forms these days. The lyrics are everywhere from meaningful cultural lessons to pointless tracks on partying and hook-ups in English, Swahili, Sheng (Kenyan street slang), or other tribal languages. Many Kenyans of the adult generation are fond of Congolese guitar music in the language of Lingala. Upscale nightclubs often play Western techno or hip hop music, while truly local bars play a selection of traditional tunes.
Communication
Language
English and Kenyan Kiswahili are the two official languages in Kenya. In the main cities, specifically Nairobi, there’s no problem to get by with only using English. The further into the country side you get, the less English is used and sometimes people only even speak their own tribal dialect. That being said, English is very prevalent, making communication issues easier than many other countries.
Phones
The main mobile phone companies in Kenya are: Safaricom (part of Vodafone), Airtel, and Orange Kenya. Kenya uses the GSM 900 technology, so if you bring your personal unlocked cell phone, make sure it is compatible with this system. Pre-pay SIM card phone connections are available at many stores or roadside dukas (small store) for a very small price. Making calls is still pricey per minute, so many choose to just SMS (text) each other.
Internet
Internet is widely available in the main cities of Kenya, though it is sparse in smaller towns. Nairobi has plenty of cafes and restaurants that offer wifi. Safaricom mobile provider offers a USB modem for online connectivity for a start up price of around $35.
Food & Drink
Ugali, a thick mush made from cornmeal or sorghum, is the staple for the majority of Kenyans. A number of vegetables including the very popular sukuma wiki (kale) or cabbage, are cooked with tomatoes, onions, and the famous Mchuzi Mix (Kenyan style msg seasoning) and eaten with the ugali. Indian influenced chapati’s (similar to roti or tortillas), often enjoyed with beans is another common meal. On occasion a meat, carrot, and potato stew compliments the starch and vegetables.
Kenyans love meat, and if they can afford it, they will indeed eat roasted goat or beef (nyama choma) everyday. From Nairobi to Kisumu there are countless nyama choma eateries. The main practice is to order your selection of raw meat straight off the animal carcass, drink a couple beers while it’s roasting, and devour it as soon as it’s ready. Nyama choma is normally served right off a cutting board, chopped into bite sized pieces and manually dipped into a pile of salt! I love to eat my nyama choma with a side of kachumbari (chopped up tomatoes, onions, chilies, and cilantro).
As an African hub with a huge Indian population and a diverse international crowd, Nairobi is home to a wide variety of international cuisine. Sampling Indian and Ethiopian food are two cuisines I would highly recommend while visiting Nairobi.
Drinking in Nairobi is never hard to find, though lately there are some added difficulties. Due to widespread alcohol abuse, in 2010 the Kenyan government decided to only allow the selling of alcohol at bars from 5 pm to 11 pm on weekdays and 2 pm to 11 pm on weekends. Many say this is just a vessel for corruption, but getting caught drinking during the restricted hours is a hefty fine. If you travel to Kenya, it would be wise to find the freshest alcohol rules.
Safety
Nairobi has long been known as a city with it’s share of crime. Most of the criminal activity pertains to bag snatches and pick-pockets, though car jacking and robberies are not uncommon. In my experience of eight years in Nairobi, I had a number of mobile phones stolen, my Mother had a gold necklace ripped off her neck, and my Father had a watch torn straight off his wrist.
Security in Nairobi has been improving in recent years, however it’s important to be conscious of your surroundings (mostly in Nairobi) and try to avoid walking around questionable areas by yourself. The main precaution to follow is to steer clear of wearing any visible jewellery and never carry a wallet in your back pocket! Consider using an “in the pants money wallet” to deter pick-pockets.
That being said, for the majority of the time, I feel safe and comfortable walking around Nairobi and I love it! Rural areas and smaller cities in Kenya are much different and usually safer from the streets of Nairobi.
Volunteering & Good Causes
With the access of transportation, decent communication, and being an international hub, Kenya has a big share of NGO’s and organizations that need volunteers. From fee based volunteer immersion programs to just helping out for a day or two, there are quite a few opportunities throughout the country.
I have personally never participated in a fee based volunteer program in Kenya, but I have been to places like the New Life Children’s Home orphanage to play with kids for a day, and have helped some friends with projects in slum areas of Nairobi.
Note: If you are in search of a volunteer opportunity with minimal fees apart from living costs, it is often most productive to just show up in Nairobi and make some connections. You can start just by visiting a local site (like an orphanage) and inquiring about longer term help.
Read & Watch
For local Kenyan literature, check out the works by Ngugi Wa Thiongo or Meja Mwangi. For local news, see the Daily Nation or the East African Standard.
Our of Africa (book/movie) – Written by the legendary Karen Blixen, Out of Africa is a hugely famous memoir (and movie) about the experiences of living life in colonial Kenya.
The Ghost and the Darkness – The true horrifying story of the notorious man-eating lions of Tsavo that tormented the building of the Kenya railroad.
Imperial Reckoning – The Untold Story of Britain’s Gulag in Kenya (Book) – An in-depth account of the colonial history of Kenya.
Guidebooks – There are quite a few guidebooks about Kenya including the Lonely Planet Kenya guide and The Rough Guide to Kenya.
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