Djibouti draws few tourists thanks to its reputation for being the hottest place in Africa (probably true) and being ridiculously overpriced (also probably true). However, with vistas that will take your breath away, and a culture caught half way between 20th century France and modern Africa, the smallest country in the region is most definitely worth a visit.
The French influence seeps through every aspect of Djibouti’s culture and after a long overland journey from Ethiopia, Somaliland or Eritrea a cheese and ham baguette followed by a fresh pain au chocolate will definitely be on the cards.
This little gem is found just north of the Horn of Africa, bordering Ethiopia, Somaliland and Eritrea yet despite the tensions that these 3 neighbours often display, remains somewhat removed from the hostility.
Thanks largely to it being located at the entrance of the Red Sea, Djibouti has found itself in the enviable position of being a strategically important point with both global industry and military, so thanks to their large port Djibouti proudly boasts a much superior infrastructure, education system and all round levels of ‘development’ than its East-African counterparts.
The country itself, outside Djibouti city the capital, is largely composed of volcanic wasteland which means public transport is limited should you feel the want to explore. With that in mind it’s quite expensive to backpack in Djibouti as a solo traveler because you’ll be required to rent a car if you wish to venture further a field.
That being said, the disparity between the rich and the poor is still very apparent here so you can find yourself walking down an spacious French style boulevard, turn a corner and be struck by the slums that you thought you’d left behind in the neighbouring countries, like I say Djibouti is one place you have to experience for yourself to truly appreciate the contrasts, culture and sights that it holds.
Quick Tips
Djibouti is still predominantly a traditional Muslim country so bear that in mind and dress appropriately (so ladies no shoulders or knees please, and try to forget about the shorts guys, especially on Fridays).
Eating in supermarket delis will save you a fortune on food and besides it helps you make the most of fresh jam, baguettes, croissants etc. Get there early and they’ll be straight from the oven.
If possible, find some people to travel with – 4 is a great number, it’ll open up a lot more possibilities in terms of car rental and room sharing.
Visa & Border Crossings
Djibouti shares its land borders with Eritrea, Ethiopia and Somaliland.
VOA (visa on arrival) are available to most EU nationalities if, and only if, you arrive via air – note, at the time of writing only 10 day transits were being given as VOA.
If you’re arriving by land you’ll need to get a visa in advance. There aren’t Djibouti embassies in every country so you can try the French embassy if you’re stuck. The most simple option is to stop in Addis Ababa (Ethiopia’s capital) and get your visa in the Djibouti embassy there, it’s pain-free and you can collect it the same day. Just bring your $40 USD (fees depend on nationality) and 2 passport photos.
Land
Dire Dawa, Ethiopia – Djibouti – You can take a bus direct from Dire Dawa to Djibouti City and vice-versa. This takes around 12 hours and leaves every day, normally early evening departures. Also, there is a train that runs irregularly through the week, tickets are difficult to book and is the journey is effectively for cargo but there are reports of passengers hopping on board.
Hargeisa, Somaliland – Loyada, Djibouti – No real town as such. You get a 4WD from Hargeisa (or Djibouti City if you’re coming from Djibouti) – be warned, this is an arduous journey, the hardest I have ever taken!
Eritrea – The border is currently closed.
Boat
Aden or Al Mokha, Yemen – Djibouti – There’s no ferry service but you can ‘hitch’ a ride on various cargo boats after some translation and ‘compensation’ (normally $20-$60). Just make sure you have your Yemen and Djibouti visas in advance. It takes about 15 hours and normally involves a lot of cattle.
Attractions & Top Things to Do in Djibouti
Djibouti is a tiny country so the tourist trail is quite restricted. There are three places of note that, budget-abiding, you won’t want to miss.
Djibouti City
The city, built in the late 19th-century city maintains a distinctly Franco/Arabic feel. The dynamic Central Market (Le Marché Central) near the Mosque is a great way to spend an afternoon, as is a dip in the Red Sea on any of the eastern beaches. Also, with a spot of good timing you can snorkel with whale sharks in the Bay of Ghoubbet, from October to January, contact Dolphin Excursion or Le Lagon Bleu for more details.
Lac Assal
The lowest point in Africa (although Ethiopia dispute that with their Danakil depression claims) and the saltiest place in the world, bar Antarctica. This place is hot hot hot, so bring plenty of sunscreen. Accessible only by renting a 4WD from Djibouti (costs $100+ per day or $35 per person in a large group), it’s a one day trip, about 100km, from Djibouti city.
Lake Abhe
This lake crosses over the border between Ethiopia and Djibouti but, quite frustratingly, you’ll have to go back to Djibouti City before you can think about crossing any borders. The landscape here was made famous by the Planet of the Apes, and you can’t help but feel you’ve gone back in time when you cast your eyes across the bleak, isolated landscape dotted with huge limestone chimneys. Accessible only by renting a 4WD from Djibouti (costs $100+ per day or $35 per person in a large group), it’s normally a 2 day trip.
Off the Beaten Path
With the fact that public transport doesn’t cover most of the country and that 90%+ of their territory is wasteland, getting off the beaten path can prove rather tricky in Djibouti! However, have a look at these places:
Tadjoura
The population may now only be around 20,000 but the port city of Tadjoura is actually one of the oldest settlements in all of East Africa. If you think Djibouti city is hot, you’ll want to avoid this place July-August with average temperature of 38 degrees and humidity so high you’ll not want to leave the guesthouse! Check out the locals on the coast catching their dinner and see if you can join them in a great evening over looking the Red Sea. Waterskiing, snorkeling and windsurfing can all also be arranged here. Takes about 3 hours by bus to get here from the city.
Goda Mountains
After Tadjoura you can head further north to the wonderful Goda Mountains, which hosts Djibouti’s only national park. There are great hiking trails and with an altitude of up to 1800m the temperature is a lot more manageable than on the plains below!
Sable Blanche
Just a short boat ride from Djibouti city, you’ll most likely have this island paradise to yourself. White sand beaches and hammocks are the order of the day here so if you’re looking for some respite from your African odyssey here’s where you’ll find it.
Weather & Best Time to Visit
The hottest place in Africa, and it tries its best to live up to the reputation. This place is roasting, seriously. Drink plenty of water and slap on the sunscreen. Try to visit between November and April when daily temperatures might even drop below 30, if you’re lucky. During the rest of the year, we are talking about average temperatures of 35+, even as high as 45!
Money & Costs
Foreign credit and debit cards are excepted in some ATMS within Djibouti city although they can be unreliable. Outside the capital you’ll need cash so bring plenty with you, US Dollars preferably. The Djibouti Franc is tied to the dollar at 175-180 depending on who you talk to in the country (175 is the official rate, but good luck getting that!)
Djibouti’s expenses are at least double the countries around it in terms of daily costs. The exorbitant accommodation will take a chunk of your money as will the car rental so figure up to $50 a day for your stay here if you want to experience all Djibouti has to offer.
Both Djibouti francs and USD are accepted in major stores but you’ll definitely need to hold local currency so change it on arrival. As soon as you leave the city for any trips, make sure you have enough Francs to last you until your return!
People & Culture
Locals are very friendly, a trait all East African nations seem to hold, although English is far from widespread so expect a lot of smiles and hand gestures.
Travellers – I saw the grand total of none, but if you do see them they’ll most likely be hardy backpackers as opposed to gap-yearers.
Accommodation
After coming from any other country in the area, Djibouti’s accommodation will sting your wallet. An absolute bare minimum of $20 USD a night, however that does include clean double beds with air-con. In the city, that’s the bottom of the scale though so look around, barter and don’t give up or you’ll end up paying double that. Outside the city, you’re more than likely going to be in huts for $10-$15 per night, no AC and a lot of sweat.
Communication
Language
French and Arabic can be heard everywhere, English is rare aside from the odd tourist centre. Somali and Afar are also quite widespread too.
Internet
Wifi is surprisingly scare aside from overpriced 5 star hotels but there are a multitude of cafes with Wifi to choose from in Djibouti city. Outside the city you’ll struggle to get online.
Food & Drink
Varied, delicious and relatively expensive. The French vibe runs throughout the country but nowhere more so than the cuisine in Djibouti City. You can eat high-end fillet steak with a glass of red wine in a number of places but don’t expect it to come cheap! $50 per head is nothing in these places.
For a backpacking budget, a standard meal will cost around $4 – $7 and if you’re really watching the pennies then head straight to the supermarket delis and stock up on French bread, jam and meat – you can have breakfast for $3, lunch and dinner for $4 each.
Safety
Since the spate of anti-Government risings across the world struck, Djibouti has experienced numerous public demonstrations. If you’re visiting, avoid any public gatherings. In my opinion, I often think danger levels in foreign countries are overplayed but we gain nothing from being foolhardy so stay alert. Aside from the current demonstrations, and certainly in comparison to various other nearby African countries, Djibouti is safe, and has officially been declared a mine-safe country.
The biggest risk is from the erratic driving demonstrated by some of the locals, often men who have spent the majority of their day chewing qat (a leaf that when chewed for hours gives off an effect similar to marijuana). It’s safe to walk around, even at night, but keep your whits about you and avoid touring the slums in the dark.
Festivals
Ramadan and Christmas are the staple festivals celebrated here each year. Also, the Eid Al Adha festival is celebrated and the day is declared as a national holiday in Djibouti. June 27th is their independence day which is great cause for celebration across the country and everything will be closed accordingly.
Volunteering & Good Causes
Although there is obvious poverty across Djibouti, it’s neighbouring countries are much more in need. That being said, if you’re heart is set on volunteering here the best way would be to book your ticket and turn up – there’s very little in the way of organised volunteering available here.