Rurrenabaque, or Rurre, as it’s affectionately called by locals, is the jumping off point for trips into the Bolivian Amazon jungle or the Pampas.
It’s a tiny town seemingly in the middle of nowhere (if you took the bus), and the dusty, dirt-filled, gravely roads have you thinking you’ve gone back in time. While there’s not a whole lot to do in the town itself other than set up and get ready for trips into the jungle, it has a certain charm to it.
Getting There/Arriving
FLY, for God’s sake, spend the money to fly. If traveling to Rurre during rainy season, be prepared for delays, sometimes for days, with both planes and buses.
Plane
Flights go to and from Rurre to La Paz daily and cost about $75US one way. It’s a 45 minute flight, or you could choose to take one of the worst bus rides in South America, your choice. One of the first things we did in Rurre after arriving by bus was find the nearest travel agent and buy a plane ticket. The $75 rate is standard, and look into booking as soon as you know you’re going, especially during high season.
Bus
As mentioned, this bus trip is not the best. It’s about 18-20 hours from La Paz, 14-16 if you come from Coroico, and while we went on bus rides twice as long during my time backpacking in South America, this was the worst. I know the $11 price is tempting, but the extra money spent is worth it, trust me.
Boat
A few guys from our World’s Most Dangerous Road bike ride took a 3 day boat trip up the river from Coroico, camping along the way. They didn’t seem too impressed with the experience, but I think it may have to do with the fact that they were in a group with a bunch of French firefighters. Ladies, this is no guarantee, so check ahead of time to see if you’d be so lucky.
Getting Around
Your own two feet are all you need in Rurre. It’s a tiny little place, and taxis are simply unnecessary. Even if you end up flying, you should be able to take a shuttle bus provided by the company you bought your tickets from.
Where to Stay
Again, Rurre is a tiny little town with only a few streets, and there’s not one concentrated area of hostels or hotels, so a simple walk around will find you a place to stay. Most are pretty simple and pretty similar. Some places have pools, some have a/c, and obviously those are more expensive.
It is really hot and humid in Rurre, so sleeping in a non-air conditioned room can be brutal (we each took 5 cold showers the first day). Rooms tend to book up in high season, so book ahead if you’re traveling June-September. We stayed in non-a/c rooms with private bathrooms with showers, and we paid $7.50US/night.
Food and Drink
A lot of standard touristy-type food is found in Rurre as this is a touristy town. People come here for one reason and one reason only, to go into the jungle or pampas, so obviously finding anything localized is pretty difficult. The restaurants and bars are pretty standard, with a lot places serving virtually the same thing, pizzas, pasta, burgers, and sandwiches. The one exception is crazy falafel guy.
Crazy Falafel Guy
I hate to be so judgmental, but crazy falafel guy is, well, batshit crazy. He does make a mean falafel though. Check out the post devoted to crazy falafel guy for a further explanation, and even though you may get stuck in our predicament, the falafel is freaking delish, so find him if he’s still around, which I expect he is.
Moskitto Bar/Monkey Bar
You will certainly run across both of these places when traipsing around Rurre. Both are your typical tourist bars and restaurants. The food in both is pretty good, nothing great but standard backpacker eats. Drinks are strong and happy hours are promoted at both, along with pool tables, chilling areas, and tv’s for your sports needs. They are both cool places to hang out, and the Monkey Bar in particular had some great music playing the night we were there.
What to Do
Capibaras on a Pampas Tour
If you go to Rurre, you’re going for a trip into the jungle or pampas. Now you may be thinking, “What’s the difference?” In short, if you are more interested in wildlife, go on a pampas tour, if flora and fauna are your thing, or you want to do a bit of volunteering, then a jungle tour is for you. Can’t decide? Many companies offer tours of both. A page and post dedicated to our pampas tour are up, so check them out.
Jungle Tour
There are tours between 1 and 30 days in the Amazon jungles of Bolivia. Most tour companies have their own lodging in the jungles, but it is also possible to hike in and camp if you’re the more adventurous type. Flora, fauna, and insects are the highlights here, and while there are also many species of wild animals, they are said to remain rather hidden in the jungle, and it’s possible you won’t see any during your time here, so if that’s what you’re looking for, you may be better off with a pampas tour.
Pampas Tour
During our three day pampas tour, we saw alligators, crocodiles, exotic birds, giant capybaras, turtles, howler monkeys, spider monkeys, anacondas, piranhas, and pink dolphins. And lots of them. If puttering down the river in a dug-out canoe, while seeing all this wildlife in plain view all around you, sounds enticing, let me tell you, it is. What a wonderful introduction into jungle wildlife. Be sure to check out much more detailed information, with tons of pictures, on our Pampas page and post with tons of tips for visiting.
Check out more recommendations with my Bolivia travel tips.